how heavy do you plant your crimson? terminate about a month before brassicas would you say?sure love Crimson ahead of planned brassicas!
35 days post plant and lush.
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how heavy do you plant your crimson? terminate about a month before brassicas would you say?sure love Crimson ahead of planned brassicas!
35 days post plant and lush.
View attachment 127458View attachment 127459
20 lbs per acre. I have alot to do so I probably start at a month out. Ideally a couple weeks would be just fine to squeeze a bit more out of crimson.how heavy do you plant your crimson? terminate about a month before brassicas would you say?
Does the majority of your crimson come back in spring? Does it depend on intensity of winter?how heavy do you plant your crimson? terminate about a month before brassicas would you say?
No none cuz I kill it ahead of brassicas. You will get carry over if you fall plant crimson as part of a fall mix.Does the majority of your crimson come back in spring? Does it depend on intensity of winter?
I see in your earlier post that you planted April 21 this year. Is that typical or do you ever frost seed crimson? Thanks for answering all my questions!20 lbs per acre. I have alot to do so I probably start at a month out. Ideally a couple weeks would be just fine to squeeze a bit more out of crimson.
Cannot frost seed crimson or pretty much any annual clover for that matter besides maybe frosty BerseemI see in your earlier post that you planted April 21 this year. Is that typical or do you ever frost seed crimson? Thanks for answering all my questions!
Cleared about 3/4 acre of timber/brush yesterday for a good plot. Hopefully going to seed it next weekend. Given the time of year, would you do brassicas (mix I have is 50% radishes) or rye? Will be adjacent to a soybean plot.
Given your timing, I'd mix the brassicas with the rye and plant ASAP.
If your plot was in the woods, I'd put down a heavy dose of lime and 200# of 6-24-24 as well.
I would disagree with anyone saying to plant now. How do you expect things to germinate? Morning dew ain’t going to cut it. Rain is the only hope. If you don’t get it, you’re feeding the birds.
There is plenty of time as long as your soil prep work is done. I planted turnips in south central Iowa last fall; Sept 15th. Chance of rain Thursday, I would be sitting on G waiting on O, 30 mins before radar shows your farm is going to get rain, get it planted. I had turnips the size of golfballs and some baseball size. Deer hammered into well past deer season. Turnip's/raddish have a short maturity and with our trends of no killing frost Into November, you’ve got plenty of time.
Priorities I guess……….Not everyone is able to jump and head to their farm 2 hours before a rain. Not knowing exactly where in Iowa the poster is from, calendar wise and given his mix, its a good time to plant.
Packing everything in is a good way to press into the soil. Birds don't typically eat much brassica seed..
There are also quite a few rains that pop up in late summer.
Priorities I guess……….
Plant now, with no rain will result in no growth, anyway you shake it. Relying on a pop up rain with today’s weather trends is just poor advice IMO. Birds will 100% hammer turnip/radish/rye/wheat seed.
I just had a pop up rain after planting Friday with no rain in the forecast..
I plant by calendar. I've never had any issues with that in 15+ years of farming and food plotting.
But make sure you’re elaborating on the most important part of all this………..are you drilling your seed in or are you broadcasting on top, broadcasting on top and cultipacking……..all 3 of these will result in potentially different successes.Brassicas are one type of seeding where simple germination is the most important issue. Once they get going - they chase moisture down. IMO- they are extremely resilient at hanging on until the next rain. I’ve “NEVER” had a a brassic failure. My “fine print” is extremely important & probably doesn’t apply to most folks…
1) I haven’t tilled this soil for years & when my brassicas go in, it’s not after tillage that released the soil moisture. *not knocking those that can’t do this or don’t want to - just saying it helps me a lot.
2) I choose good soils. I don’t fight clay knobs. & I’ve built organic matter, healthy soil & soil structure for decades. Not a minor point. Junk clay soil vs premium dirt- sometimes u can’t pick the better stuff but I usually try to locate it. The other part- my “mediocre soil” has actually turned into “great soil” with countless years of compost, manure, rotating cover crops (plots), stuff always growing & no tillage.
3) I don’t have a big Luxary of “when I plant” either because I have so much to do. I hold off when it’s a huge drought but I probably don’t pay as close of attention as some. My plots will have some residue on top, no tillage, great soil, brassicas at 1/4 to 1/8th” deep & once they get going…. I have yet to have a failure yet. Million ways to skin a cat but I am certain a guy can do several things to swing things wildly in their favor.
I am drilling. Causing soil to be slightly buried & packed tight. Clearly this is going to allow for best germination. A minimal till drill is a cheap way to accomplish this btw.But make sure you’re elaborating on the most important part of all this………..are you drilling your seed in or are you broadcasting on top, broadcasting on top and cultipacking……..all 3 of these will result in potentially different successes.
My career (agronomist) I help improve farmers profitabity and I do that on over 40,000 acres across several states; since it’s a competition here.
I’ll post some pictures October 1st what my plots look like.
Like I said, bad advice is bad advice anyway you look at it. Planting in dry soils with no rain in the forecast is a waste of money.