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Brassicas

And with Clethodim, always be sure to check the strength. I think Paul is recommending 12-16oz/A of 26%, which most of it is. But recently I got a few jugs delivered from Helena Chemicals where I have an account. Very reputable company with tons of different ag chemicals. They sell clethodim under the name TapOut. When I read the label, it was only 13%. I recall another manufacturer (but forget the name) that had it at 12.5%. If yours is of the weaker concentration, just double the amount. But I will also tell you that TapOut was no cheaper than Arrow or one of the other more common mixes of clethodim. Needless to say, I returned it and ordered some Arrow!!
 
Champdog21 said:
Dbltree, I'm having some rye resprout in my brassica plot. What mix rate would you recommend for clethodim in a 4 gallon backpack sprayer? I need amount of clethodim and amount of crop oil. Thanks!
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I burnt some of my brassicas this yr with my 4 gal backpack sprayer with SelectMaxx.. i put it on a little too liberal (mostly wherepaths overlapped though) i put 9oz and crop oil in and covered a little less than 1/8th acre.. so im going to probably try around 4oz next time.. like said before depends on strength of herbicide too and how much area you can cover with 4 gal....
 
magnus said:
And with Clethodim, always be sure to check the strength. I think Paul is recommending 12-16oz/A of 26%, which most of it is. But recently I got a few jugs delivered from Helena Chemicals where I have an account. Very reputable company with tons of different ag chemicals. They sell clethodim under the name TapOut. When I read the label, it was only 13%. I recall another manufacturer (but forget the name) that had it at 12.5%. If yours is of the weaker concentration, just double the amount. But I will also tell you that TapOut was no cheaper than Arrow or one of the other more common mixes of clethodim. Needless to say, I returned it and ordered some Arrow!!
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Good call Bob! I hadn't run into cleth with less then 26% but no surprise that someone is making a buck that way.

I buy from Rural King...$59.98

Tide Clethodim 1 Gallon
When inspecting your fields are you noticing annual and perennial grasses in the soybeans? There is no time or manpower to hoe those rows. This is one more aggravation that you just do not need!! Don’t blow your top. There is a solution. This is a job for Tide Clethodim 1 Gallon Selective Post-emergent Herbicide. More specifically, it is a 26.4% solution that contains 2 pounds active ingredient Clethodim per US gallon.
This is a dedicated herbicide that does not control sedges or broadleaf weeds. Seedling and rhizome Johnsongrass and Shattercane will fall with this product, not to mention the volunteer corn that tends to pervade the bean field from last year’s crop.
As we mentioned above this product is for soybeans but also labeled for cotton, alfalfa, leafy, tuberous and fruiting vegetables, sugar beets, peanuts, sunflowers, potatoes, ornamentals, non-bearing fruit and nut trees, and other crops and non-crop areas.
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They also have 2 1/2 gal 26.4% 2.5 clethodim

I burnt some of my brassicas this yr with my 4 gal backpack sprayer with SelectMaxx.. i put it on a little too liberal (mostly wherepaths overlapped though) i put 9oz and crop oil in and covered a little less than 1/8th acre.. so im going to probably try around 4oz next time.. like said before depends on strength of herbicide too and how much area you can cover with 4 gal....
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Usually the burning is from the crop oil rather then clethodim but SelectMax is a name brand with some additives in it so anything is possible?

NOTE: SelectMax is only 12.6%!!

SelectMax
 
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Champdog21 said:
Dbltree, I don't need a surfactant with using clethodim and crop oil do you? Does the oil act somewhat as a surfactant also?
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The crop oil is all you need but CO comes in different concentrations so read label, using super concentrated oil at 1 qt per acre will burn the snot out everything! ;)
 
First year of trying the dbltree mix so I apologize if these questions have been addressed. Checked the plot yesterday and the brassicas are filled in nicely, but my first question is how big should the ppt and radishes be by now? It was planted July 27th and we have had some decent rains since. The radishes (daikon) are about an inch in diameter and 4 inches long and the ptt are about the size of a quarter. Both have very lush green tops about 2 foot high. In past experience we have had monster ptt bulbs by this time. This plot was planted on ground that was soybeans last year and we burned it down with gly 3 weeks prior and then ran a drag harrow over it prior to seeding.

My next question is weed control. We have a bit of foxtail that grew prior to the brassicas completely filling in. Should we spray it or just let a frost take care of it? What would be the best concentrate if spraying is required?

My last question is on the rye side of the plot. Due to the lack of predicted rainfall at planting time and no way to incorperate urea. We did not put it down. We still put down 100# of 19-19-19. Can I put the urea down prior to rain late this week even tho the rye is 2 inches tall (Planted on labor day) or will it burn it? If I can't use urea, is there a recommended liquid fert i can spray to boost the cereal grains? We used an ATV drill on the rye side but the row spacing was 9" so we attepted to double plant it, but a decent row gap still exists so i would like to get the oats and rye going to choke out any weed pressure.
 
I would expect larger roots by now unless zero rain, planted to thick or not enough fertilizer?

Perfect time to add urea this weekend!
 
Seeding rate of 10#'s of the brassica mix/acre with recommended fertilizer application so could it be due to tighter soil composition (tigh clay soil).
 
I have a disease. Well, we have known that for a very long time, but more specifically my brassicas plot has one plant, I don't know if it is PT, DER, or GFR that looks like crap. In the photos below can anyone tell me if I have a disease or is it insects?

Back ground, planted on 8/2. Plot size prolly 1/3 acre. Frost seeded clover last spring. 200 pounds of urea and 100 pounds of 6-24-24 spread before tilling. Not quite Paul's mix, I went heavy on the DER and way heavy on the pounds per acre. The drought really cut back on germination but once we got rain that which did germinate exploded. I spread rye to fill the bare spots and that has germinated well (rye will grow on concrete).

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You can see that the leaves, only on this one type of plant, have turned yellow and are curling on the edges. If I hadn't spread fertilizer I'd say it was a nitrogen issue. You can see on the last photo the affected plants are smaller and more yellow than the others. It looks like sunshine through shadows but the light is even across the photograph.

I'm not sure I'm going to do anything about it even if anybody can tell me what is going on but perhaps I can prevent it next time.

Oh yeah, last summer it was peas and the year before it was brassicas.

The way the edges are curling I'm wondering if I have some kind of aphid? I didn't get down and look for signs of aphids cause I'da spilt my beer.
 
Paul, the crop oil I got was 83% phytobland paraffinic oil and 15% alkylphenol ethoxylate. What's your recommendation. I want it to burn the grasses but not the brassicas. Again in a 4 gal backpack sprayer
 
Champdog21 said:
Paul, the crop oil I got was 83% phytobland paraffinic oil and 15% alkylphenol ethoxylate. What's your recommendation. I want it to burn the grasses but not the brassicas. Again in a 4 gal backpack sprayer
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Use 1 quart of that product per acre but 4 gal will likely do only a 1/2 acre at a steady pace, so try a pint perhaps?

Regular crop oil (1 qt per ac)

High load crop oil (use 1 pint or less per acre)
 
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Planted late July in West Central WI. Very Sandy Soil. About 1/2" of rain after planting. No rain all through August and the first half of September. They were starting to turn color on me until we got about 1-1/2" of rain in the last half of September. They're a product of the Dbltree system, clover and rye tilled under before planting. What a difference it makes!
 
John Komp of Northwoods Whitetails adopted my principals of using low cost brassica and cereal seed and put his own mixes together to offer seed to folks in the northern Great Lakes area.

You can see in this pic both brassicas and rye mix and the whole field covered with deer!



Same rotation, slightly different seed varieties, same low cost, same results!

If you live in the Great Lakes region, avoid expensive shipping or high priced buck on a bag seed and give John a call.

Northwoods Whitetails
 
Oct 10th, 2013

I think it's been 6 years perhaps since Walt called from way down south and said "would you take a look at my farm?", from there a lasting friendship developed and we set about turning his farm into a whitetail oasis...



In the years since then we have worked on improving cover and food sources, planted 1000's of trees and untold numbers of fruit trees, switchgrass and more. In 2013 my son took over the physical aspects of our habitat business....



Walt's farm has been a work in progress and became my pride and joy in terms of habitat and now...to see my son carry on and do it better then I ever did is...incredible.



These brassicas received no rain from planting to mid September



6 years of winter rye/red clover and brassica rotation paid off



Lush, thick, weed free brassicas



The strips make rotation simple and keep deer moving across the field...note clover around perimeter



The lush rye/oats/peas mix keeps deer from wiping out brassicas



and no matter the size or shape of field...the same strip rotation works



This a brand new plot, dozed clean this summer and the rotation started



and it didn't take deer long to find it



despite being surrounded by ag crops, deer prefer the lush green forage right next to their hinge cut bedding area



I don't hunt there and my son did all the work, but friends there is an example of habitat done right... :way:
 
Ryan sent in pics of his brassicas...they look amazing!









These are some we planted that have received no more than a 1/2" rain since planting but were planted into winter rye and red clover which literally makes night and day difference



These are from brassicas we planted at Walt's (shown previously)

Forage radish root



Purple Top Turnips



Root growth is behind a little from the drought but plenty of growing time yet



Our goal is for deer NOT to forage heavily on the brassicas at this point, but rather for them to concentrate on the rye/oats/peas now and the brassicas when snow and cold set in. This part of the reason we plant both crops in the SAME field, easy to rotate and deer are less likely to wipe out one crop. Clover strips/perimeters also help spread out grazing yet keep whitetails focused and adapted to one feeding area...

Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, Kopu II, Durana (or comparable) white clover 10% of plot, sow at 6#'s per acre with the rye combination in the fall or in the spring with oats and berseem clover. Correct Ph and P&K with soil tests

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 2.5#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2.5#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost, Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea and 400#'s of 6-28-28 per acre. Follow the dead brassicas with oats and berseem or crimson clover in mid spring at 50#'s oats and 12-15#'s berseem clover an/or same of crimson clover and/or 50#'s of chickling vetch)

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot...I use 50# each rye, oats and peas along with radish and clover seed all plant in half of each feeding area

I use 50#'s each of the following:

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 50-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Frostmaster Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre

Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre (or 20-40 pounds hairy vetch and 20-30#'s crimson clover on sandy soils)
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas use 100 - 200#'s of urea, if starting a new plot add 400#'s of 6-28-28 but for best results soil test and add only what is necessary.

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
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