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Brassicas

One mistake many landowners make is leaving soil barren in the spring, allowing weeds to come up and wasting vaulable time in which the soil can be "working" for you.

A spent brassica patch should always be followed by a spring legume if at all possible or at the very least a crop of buckwheat.

Frost seeding red clover is an option but in some cases the allelopathic chemicals in the brassicas can cause problems...not always but it does happen is just something to be aware of.

Berseem or crimson clovers are annuals that are inexpensive and can be planted into a spent brassica plot after first tilling the soil good. Oats can be added to provide spring forage and then clip them off once the clover gets established.

As mentioned, buckwheat is an option but not being a legume it provides no nitrogen for the next crop to follow leaving it low on my list of possibles.

I like to follow my brassicas with my winter rye/oats/peas/forage radish and red clover combo, this means I can till the red clover under for the next crop of brassicas. The rye and forage radishes will recycle nitrogen in the soil releasing it the following spring so they have a distinct advantage over other crops in this regard.

In order to recycle it however there has to be N in the soil, so the more N fixed by legumes the better and all of that can be utilized by the next brassica crop by the decomposing plants the following summer.

This leaves some additional options such as peas (field, cow, and iron clay), soybeans and vetches and of all these chickling vetch is a new but very powerful tool for fixing a large amount of N in only 60-70 days.

AC Greenfix Chickling Vetch

I have not tried this green manure crop yet but it I intend to give it a try this spring on many of my spent brassica plots.

The following is basic information listed on Welters web site that might help landowners decide if this product might work well for them... ;)

AC Greenfix is a new high nitrogen annual legume that is highly nutritious with a high protein count. AC Greenfix can easily fix 80-100 lbs of nitrogen per acre with over 200 lbs shown in some soil tests in only 60-70 days!

Extensive studies have shown that AC Greenfix can greatly reduce nitrogen costs (as much as 85% of the N is available to future crops) while increasing yields and boosting fertility and bacterial life in the soil.
AC Greenfix averages 22-26% protein with 30% possible at bud stage. The solid stem and grassy leaves are extremely palatable with high relative feed value. Low bloat (comparable to sanfoin grass & birdsfoot trefoil) makes it easy to use with other feeds.

AC Greenfix is a moisture efficient plant with a strong indeterminate growth pattern and has been observed to be more frost tolerant than oats or barley.

AC Greenfix performs well alone or inter-seeded with other crops and is beneficial to deer and other wildlife.

AC Greenfix performs well until temperatures consistently hit the 90's and 100's.

Establishment
**DO NOT PLANT AC GREENFIX IN YOUR FIELD AFTER YOU HAVE HAD SOYBEANS THE YEAR BEFORE, THE CROP WILL NOT DO WELL!
Have a soil test completed prior to planting (the higher the pH the better-6-9).

You should also have a good phosphorous level for a healthy crop. It is also important to have P&K in the midrange and no nitrogen added.
For maximum growth, seeds need to be inoculated with a rhizobial inoculant that is commonly used to inoculate peas and lentils. Inoculants designated for alfalfas, clovers & soybeans will not be effective.

Inoculant should be purchased separately as seed needs to be inoculated right before planting. Store inoculant in area below 70 degrees and away from sunlight. Apply inoculant and mix thoroughly before seeding into damp ground.

Yields vary according to moisture and soil conditions and a soil test should be conducted.

Early spring planting will yield the best results (root development during cool spring weather will enable the plant to withstand stress later). Plants can tolerate temperatures as low as 22-26 degrees F and recommended soils temperature is 45 degrees.

AC Greenfix's large seed can be planted in the top 3 inches-planting depth should be determined by the available moisture and protection from freezing. Seeds should be covered by at least 1-2 inches of soil.
Use a regular grain drill or an air seeder. Avoid using equipment that may damage the seed. Since the seed is not round it could cause seed to chip, allowing infection by mold and other pathogens and thus reduce germination.

**Broadcasting is not recommended.
A minimum of 50-60 lbs/acre is recommended and in drier areas, 70 lbs/acre is desired.
Management
Do not wait until AC Greenfix makes pods before you mow it back or graze it-it will not grow back.
AC Greenfix grows slowly for the first 30-40 days.

For maximum nitrogen production, the plants should be soil incorporated before seedpods are filling and root nodule activity is greatly reduced. Nitrogen production will be reduced by removing forage, but sufficient to sustain a small grain or grass crop.
Seeds mature in about 90 days.

AC Greenfix withstands well under grazing, especially when mixed with grasses. Rotational grazing practices will allow for better regrowth. Yields will vary according to available moisture, soil conditions, and temperature. Average production has been 2000-5000 lbs/DM/Acre for one cutting. A second cutting is possible if temperatures remain moderate and moisture is available.

For organic growers, to control weeds early in the season, rotary mow, graze or cut this crop when it first starts to flower or during the first week of flowering. This will make the AC Greenfix tiller out faster and grow faster, thus resulting in a much better stand.

AC Greenfix forage will dry comparable to alfalfa or grass.
 
I just got a call from Welter Seed in regards to Groundhog Forage Radishes...across the nation these radishes have exploded in popularity with both livestockmen and by those planting them for deer forage!

AMPAC is the seed grower and their supplies for spring delivery have been exhausted until June so Welters was calling past customers like myself to give us first chance at what seed they had left in stock. I bought the last 23#'s they had and booked 50#'s for June delivery.

Most landowners planting for deer will need seed for July or September plantings so new seed will be available but Welters is encouraging everyone to just call and book your seed. Don't have to pay for it but just get on the list.

Here's the link to Welter Seed' GH seed...which is $2.65 a pound
Welter Seed - GH Radish

They noted that customers have commented that their is a huge difference in GH and conventional oilseed radish in both forage and root development.

Another option is the Trophy brand radish available thru Cooper Seed although they are pricey at $6 a pound

Trophy Forage Radish

To my knowledge I know of no one who has planted either Groundhog or Trophy brand forage radishes and had deer refuse to eat them as often happens with other brassicas such as rape and turnips.

Certainly worth trying because of the many benefits both as a whitetail forage and soil improver so get on the list to try some forage radish in 2010...:)
 
If I was planning to no-till brassicas what you recommend for fertilizer application? Is broadcasting it OK? Would it be better to do it at planting or after some growth is established?
 
If I was planning to no-till brassicas what you recommend for fertilizer application? Is broadcasting it OK? Would it be better to do it at planting or after some growth is established?

Nitrogen application without tillage is a tricky situation when using the most common form...urea. One must broadcast it on preferably within hours of a minimum of a 1/2" of rain or it will end up being lost to the atmosphere.

That being said if your going to no-till you might consider split applications of N with 1/2 being applied at planting and 1/2 at perhaps 30 days after germination.

Ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate are less volitile then urea and better options but they are more expensive and difficult to find in many areas. Worth checking on at your local ag supplier though...
 
That being said if your going to no-till you might consider split applications of N with 1/2 being applied at planting and 1/2 at perhaps 30 days after germination.

We used split applications of ammonium nitrate last fall and it worked really well for both topgrowth (10"+) and bulbs (up to softball size).

Local COOP had bagged AN last season, but he told me it would be strict bulk this year. We will just need to find a use for 500 lb! :way:
 
We used split applications of ammonium nitrate last fall and it worked really well for both topgrowth (10"+) and bulbs (up to softball size).

Local COOP had bagged AN last season, but he told me it would be strict bulk this year. We will just need to find a use for 500 lb! :way:

Your fortunate to be able to get it at all! AN is the ticket for no-till and top dressing for sure! :way:


My goal on these forums is to help landowners and managers learn how to grow high yielding forages that are also high in nutritive values while at the same time lowering their inputs by improving soils through a combination of crops and rotations.

We our fortunate to have all kinds of options that if planted properly, provide top quality forage and brassicas are one of those options. In this thread we have shared the use of three short season brassicas that include rape (canola), turnips and forage radish all of which have the potential to attract and feed deer well into late fall or early winter in most states.

Because many landowners are learning and eager to understand why they might wish to include brassicas in their habitat program perhaps we should go back to the beginning and compare the merits of each alone and in combination. Each brassica species has pros and cons and within each species are varieties with different qualities and a number of hybrids.

Which one is right for you? Do you need one, two or three species? Is it necessary to plant multiple varieties? What are each plants soil improving attributes if any?

Here are some thoughts to consider to help you better decide what might be best for you and your program.

The items in the quotes are from this link:
Brassicas for Forage

Rape or canola is usually one of the first brassicas that deer will begin feeding on and seed is reasonable at $1 to 3 a pound. Rape can be used as a cover crop and if plowed under provide green manure but for most hunter/landowners this isn’t the reason we plant it nor a viable option. Rape does not have a long tap root so is generally not capable of breaking up hardpan nor does it have any ability to store nitrogen.

Rape is a short-season leafy brassica whose stems and leaves are ready to harvest (rotationally graze, strip graze or green chop) 90- 120 days after establishment. Plants develop a reddish tinge when ready for harvest. Rangi, Windall, Dwarf Essex, Winfred and Emerald varieties have performed satisfactorily in Penn State University trials. Leave a ten-inch stubble to facilitate rapid regrowth.

Rape leaves and stems have lower protein level (14-17%) than turnips. Rapes can attain yields of 8000 lb/acre dry matter if planted during May or June. Rape can be planted as late as August 1, but with lowered potential yield if planted late. Seed at 3-4 lb/acre rate.

Please note that yields are substantially reduced if planted after August 1st and rape typically will perform best if optimum levels of NPK are achieved at a planting. Rape is a higher nitrogen user so 60-90#’s per acre will greatly enhance both yield and quality of forage.

Turnips are often the last to be grazed until deer adapt to feeding on the turnip tops although many hybrids such as Appin and Pasja are more palatable and attractive. The positive attribute about turnips is the ability to grow a large bulbous root that deer will feed on long after other crops are gone. This in effect is “stockpiling” a food source that deer can take advantage of even after heavy snows.

Turnips do have a tap root that can extend down several feet but the bulk of the root is a softball sized bulb that often pushes itself out of the ground rather then drilling deeper. This lends itself perfectly to being an easy meal once severe weather kills the tops and in most cases deer will dig thru deep snows to reach this nutritious food source.

Turnips are short-season root brassicas that provide roots, stem and leaf growth for rotational grazing or strip grazing 70 to 90 days after seeding. The leaves can be grazed from mid- September until January depending upon critical low temperatures and snow cover. Top growth generally will survive temperatures between 15-20 degrees F, while bulbs will be about 5 degrees hardier. The common purple top garden type as well as Rondo, Royal Crown and other forage varieties, yield up to 7000 lb/acre of dry matter. The tops have 17-24% crude protein while roots contain 12-15% protein. Some new forage-type turnip varieties such as All Top produce relatively more top dry matter than roots. Turnips are seeded from mid July to mid August at rate of 2-3 lb/acre and produce maximum yields approximately 90 days after seeding

Again one must understand that planting after mid August begins to severely reduce yield and since the main attribute of turnips is root production, late plantings result in little or no root production.
Turnips are also heavy nitrogen users and just as with rape require 60-90#’s of nitrogen along with proper P&K levels or they will be short and stunted and lacking in the kind of protein levels we hope for.

Turnips do have the ability to bring up some subsoil nutrients but limited by their slender tap root and the round root does little to relieve soil compaction problems. Typically turnips would not be considered high on the list of soil improving crops but they can be an essential element as a late winter food source.

Forage radishes have been bred for root growth and forage production versus oilseed production and although they have been around awhile are relatively new to many landowners as a whitetail food source.
FR tops can be upwards of 20% protein and are quite possibly the highest on the palatablity list when it comes to brassicas. They can produce up to 8000#’s per acre of biomass and up to 3700#’s below ground in their root systems. The roots are also very high in protein but because much of it is below ground do not offer the late winter food source potential that turnips do.

FR are fast growing and can be planted from late July to early September and quickly begin to provide attractive forage lasting into early winter. FR like other brassicas also will produce higher yielding better quality forage is 60-90#’s of nitrogen is applied at a planting…depending on planting dates.
FR has some advantages in regards to the shape and size of its leaf in that it is more feathery or serrated rather then broad and flat such as with rape. Planted thick enough it will indeed canopy and smother competition but at lighter rates it lends itself better to being mixed with other brassicas or in fall cereal grain plantings.

Forage radish plants are unique in that their roots can grow 2-4 feet and tap roots as much as 8 feet deep allowing them to pull up subsoil nutrients from deep into the soil. “Drilling for nutrients is somewhat like drilling for oil; it does require some energy to find more energy and while radishes will grow with no added “energy” supplying them with nitrogen allows them to drill deeper into the soil.

The process of drilling or growing this long extended root creates a hole when the root decomposes and when combined in a planting will leave the soil mellow and loose the next spring. This allows the next crop to fully extend its own roots freely to reach water and nutrients rather then having its roots crammed up against a brick wall so to speak.
The root channels allow surface water to flow in and then freezing and thawing moves the soil much like a subsoiler on a tractor only with less energy required per acre.

All of that makes forage radishes very attractive but they have yet another unique attribute that also is lacking in other brassicas. The long tap root is able to capture and store nitrogen and while it does require some N to do the “drilling” it is then able to scavenge as much as 140#’s of nitrogen per acre that will be released the following spring for the next crop via the accumulated N.

All brassicas have allelopathic chemicals that can inhibit many small seeds from germinating but forage radishes are perhaps the strongest of all brassicas in that regard. In addition to reducing weed problems they also release biotoxic compounds that also suppress bacteria, fungi, insects and nematodes that can lower crop yields.

Kale and swedes are long season brassicas that are also attractive and useful in habitat programs but we’ll cover those another time.

Looking at the three aforementioned brassica species one can see that each has notable attributes that can make them very useful in attracting and holding whitetails in fall and early winter.

Each has pros and cons, rape has no root but it’s highly palatable and nutritious leaf makes it a great choice for early to late fall feed. It has few soil improving attributes and is a high nitrogen user.

Turnips are less attractive then rape but the roots make them a necessary component in a habitat program to provide late winter feed. It has some minor soil improving attributes and is also a high nitrogen user.
Forage radish leaves are extremely palatable and highly sought after by whitetails and do have some limited usefulness from the root that extends from the soil surface. It’s soil improving attributes are tremendous and for those with heavy clay soils it has the potential to make huge strides in ones soil and it’s ability to produce higher quality food sources for deer.
Unlike other brassicas forage radish has the added ability to capture and store nitrogen, re-releasing it to the next crop at no more more expense then that applied to rape and turnips.

Each of these three plants could be planted alone or in a mix that includes on or all three at seeding rates that are compatible with soil fertility, applied nutrients and grazing pressure. Some common sense and prudence is necessary and lighter seeding rates usually better then heavy.
Planting any of these brassicas to early will insure that they will mature and go to seed rendering them useless to whitetails and opening up a pandoras box of problems from volunteer plants the following year.
One variety of each is all that is needed but planting multiple varieties is sometimes fun and each has slightly different attributes that can help increase the overall effectiveness of your brassica plot.

Crops like clover, alfalfa and forage soybeans are some of the highest in protein and this is important for lactating does and antler development in bucks so they are usually better choices for spring and summer feed.
Brassicas however can tolerate colder temps and thus become a very important and valuable food source for late fall and early winter. Planting strips or blocks of brassicas, clover and fall cereal grains allows one to rotate crops and by following a tilled under legume such as clover, landowners can significantly reduce nitrogen inputs.

Utilizing nitrogen scavengers like forage radish and winter rye in your rotation allows nitrogen to be captured and used by the next crops while at the same time offering your whitetail herd attractive high quality forage.

If you feel brassicas have a place in your habitat program, look over the attributes of each and then decide which combination might work best for you, your deer and the soils on your land. :)
 
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Rapes can attain yields of 8000 lb/acre dry matter if planted during May or June.

Rape can be planted as late as August 1, but with lowered potential yield if planted late. Seed at 3-4 lb/acre rate.

So is there a reason that it is suggested to plant late July-Early Aug?
 
So is there a reason that it is suggested to plant late July-Early Aug?

There are different maturity dates just like with corn (for both rape and turnips) and the information provided in that quote was for grazing cattle and sheep. Livestockmen rotational graze rape so they can keep it from going to seed.

Deer hunters don't have that luxery!

2ndly since most of us mix rape and turnips, the turnips have a shorter maturity date so to make them work in conjunction they need to be planted about mid July.

The mose common rapes that hunters plant typically mature in 90 days and most turnips in 60-90 days so mid July is roughly the optimum date in the midwest.

Up your way June might be fine because cold weather no doubt comes several weeks earlier....;)
 
In regards to frost seeding clover into a dead brassica plot...here is an example of the conditions where I feel it will work better then others...

This plot is nothing more then bare dirt

01-19-10BrassicaPlot.jpg


Deer grazed it hard and heavy from the get go and then finally cleaned every last leaf from the plot

Brassica1-1.jpg


The roots never had opportunity to grow and what was left they knawed off right to the dirt!

Brassica2-1.jpg


In this situation the allelopathic chemicals should be minimal at best and I believe that frost seeding will be successful. I will try both white and red clovers (seperately) to see if one or the other works better then others.

If either or both fail I will till the plots and plant berseem or crimson annual clovers and all clovers will be tilled under for a fall rye/pea mix...:)
 
I thought a few might enjoy the before and after photos of my first brassica plot. I started with a garden size plot of dwarf essex</ST1:p rape to see if the deer in my area would even eat it. Very cheap to plant! One bag of pelletized lime, one bag of 12-12-12 and some mail order seed from Welters. (I couldn’t find the seed locally.) It was planted like clover: Roundup, wait for the kill, fertilize, disk, cultipack, spread seed and cultipack again.

picture.php


The deer didn’t touch it until the January cold and snow. Now many of the plants are down to stems.

picture.php


I would think the plot would help the deer in some small way but I didn’t get a chance to hunt over the plot. Will the deer begin using it earlier next season? <O:p</O:p
 
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Paul,

Thanks for the great update. Some very excellent points are made on all plants.


Tick rancher,

Great looking plot. More than likely they will hit it a bit sooner next year. You might want to start another small plot so that you can get into a rotation and not back to back brassicas. You can never have to many plots.:grin: You should still be able to enjoy shed hunting in and around that plot.
 
Paul,

You should still be able to enjoy shed hunting in and around that plot.

Thats what i was thinking.

If you read through this thread there is discussion about not doing back to back brassicas due to possibilty of disease. If you can expand your plot, do the new half to brassicas and the old half to something else.
 
Sprayed the Roundup in early July and planted August first. Any ideas for a test plot this year? I am considering sunflowers, cowpeas, soybeans or maybe milo. I already have a larger area in the Doubletree rotation of winter rye and clover.
 
. Any ideas for a test plot this year? I am considering sunflowers, cowpeas, soybeans or maybe milo. I already have a larger area in the Doubletree rotation of winter rye and clover.

Personally I have no use for sunflowers unless you have tons of ground and you just like the looks of them....that said, the others can be very attractive planted together or alone.

I'm going to plant milo this year simply because it is one of the few crops they usually won't touch until late fall, verus everything else that they mow to the ground before hunting season even starts.

I'll be posting in the Milo thread for those that are interested in seeing how it all works out...;)
 
Many plotters make the mistake of leaving their brassica plot empty the following spring when it could and should be growing a crop that starts feeding deer goes to work building soils and fixing nitrogen for the next crop.

Leaving any plot, field or soil bare and unused is not doing your deer and wildlife and favors and unwise soil stewardship, not to mention costing you money.

I've discussed multiple options in previous posts so I'll try to summarize some of the main options to make it easier for landowners to decide what might work best for them.

The following options are listed in pounds of seed per acre, cost per acre and appoximate nitrogen fixed and associated links to Welter Seed. One should always patronize your local seed source if possible but for some Welters may be your only choice.

Red Clover

Any red clover will work but Alta-Swede Mammoth Red Clover is the least expensive but yet most productive variety I am aware of. Sow at 10-15#'s per acre at an approximate cost of $20 an acre. Red Clover can be frost seeded but there is the risk of seeding failure due to the allelopathic chemicals in the brassicas.

The brassica plot can be tilled and oats and red clover planted together to provide a quick source of forage via the oats. Clip the oats off once the clover hets well started by early to mid June.

Red clover should fix 40-80#'s per acre over the length of a summer but up to 130 or more if allowed to grow a second year.

Alta-Swede Mammoth Red Clover - seed source

Berseem Clover

Berseem clover is an annual clover that is often called the king of green manure crops and cannot be frost seeded. It is fast growing and often added to clover seed mixes because it will rapidly provide forage while other clovers are becoming established.

Sow berseem at 10-20#'s per acre at roughly $38 an acre, add oats as with red clover and clip them off later. Berseem should fix upwards of #100 of N per acre but be sure to keep it clipped if it sarts to flower or N fixation will end.

Berseem can be up to 28% crude protien making it a great spring/summer food source

Berseem Clover - seed source

Crimson Clover

Crimson Clover is also an annual clover and frost seeding is not reccomended and like the aforementioned clovers oats can be added and clipped off or it can be planted alone at 20-30#'s per acre or roughly $32 an acre seeding costs.

Crimson is also high in protien and also will fix upwards of 100#'s of N by summers end.

Crimson Clover - seed source

Greenfix Chickling Vetch

Greenfix Chickling Vetch is a great option where deer have not eaten the brassicas and there is concern that the allelopathic chemical content is high because larger seeds such as with vetch will be unaffected. Greenfix Chickling Vetch is also a great option where one must follow brassicas with brassicas and the growing season is short.

Greenfix Chickling Vetch can fix between 80-200#'s of N in only 60-70 days!! Most clovers can come no where near that in 2 months!! This vetch can be upwards of 30% protein and produce 2000-5000#'s DM per acre.

Sow Chickling Vetch at 50-70#'s per acre at roughly $50 an acre seed cost but be sure to cover seeds 1-2" deep and drill if possible as seeds can chip when broadcast. A hand seeder with plastic spreader will lower seed chipping and fracturing also.

Greenfix Chickling Vetch

Other options include field peas, IC peas or buckwheat but the crops mentioned will provide the earliest forage to help hold deer on your property, build your soils and lower your fertilizer and herbicide inputs.
This is berseem and oats planted last spring and tilled under for a fall winter rye planting.

Oatsandberseem1.jpg


There are lot's of choices to fit almost every landowners needs when following brassicas so there is no excuse for leaving a plot bare and unproductive all summer... ;)
 
Personally I have no use for sunflowers unless you have tons of ground and you just like the looks of them....that said, the others can be very attractive planted together or alone.

We planted a patch one year to shoot doves off of....man I wish there was a finch season, cause there had to be hundreds of those things on that plot. :D
 
It's late February and the snow keeps falling here in Iowa with no end in sight to the snow and cold weather so what do brassica plots look like now?

Remember the early fall strip plots where strips of brassicas (with a few volunteer oats) were alternated with strips of winter rye and peas?

Viewofplotstrips.jpg


Well here is what they look like on 02/20/2010

WinterStripPlot.jpg


The snow churned and plowed by deer feeding on the turnips

02-20-10Brassica4.jpg


Scarcely an inch of snow untouched as they search out the tasty turnips

02-20-10Brassica7.jpg


Some landowners make the mistake of planting only forage rape and miss out on the late winter attraction that the turnips provide..

02-20-10Brassica.jpg


It's a mistake you see to only attract deer during hunting season because our endeavor should be to attract and HOLD whitetails ALL year long.

02-20-10Brassica6.jpg


Turnips are an excellent way to help hold deer right on thru the winter

02-20-10Brassica5.jpg


and it's a simple matter to include them in your mid summer brassica planting!

02-20-10Brassica3.jpg


Brassicas are only a small piece of the habitat puzzle but can be a very important one for most landowners....

02-20-10Brassica2.jpg


This is the mix I plant but it is just for reference and one can come up with your own favorite combination

Dwarf Essex Rape Seed 1#
Purple Top Turnips 1#
Appin forage turnip 1#
Barkant Forage Turnip 1#
Barnapoli Rape Seed 1/2#
Pasja Hybrid Brassica 1/2#
GroundHog Forage Radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most midwest states

Till ground, cultipack or firm soil, broadcast 5#'s per acre of brassica seed and re-cultipack.

Do NOT mix other crops with brassicas!

Use 60-90#'s of actual nitrogen (150-200#'s of urea per acre)
 
Continuing to draw them in

How are my Brassica plots? We had one week back in mid January where there was no snow. Before that time they had been digging all over the plots. After the snow melted there was hardly anything left...or so I thought. They continue to dig and dig and dig through the snow looking for anything. I will get some pics off the other computer when I get back up there again. Doesn't hurt that I found 2 matched sets and 6 of 8 sheds leading to or in the plots either :D
 
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