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Brassicas

Groundhog forage/tillage radish at 14 days

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I planted these solely to test growth rates of both foliage and roots but normal planting times would be mid to late July with other brassicas or in late August or September with cereal grains.

Optimim root growth is probably most attainable with mid to late summer plantings but GH radishes are very fast growing and plenty of grazing can be achieved by planting the end of August roughly 6 weeks before average first frost dates.

Unlike other brassicas that have broad leaves that form a shading type of canopy, forage radish has a feathery type leaf that makes it more compatible to plant at lower rates with cereal grains in the fall. At higher rates of 10#'s per acre it's best to plant it alone because the leaves will still form a dense canopy at those rates.

I ordered Tillage radish seed thru Albert Lea Seed but Albert Lea MN was hit with some deadly tornados that may have delayed shipping. When it does arrive I will plant both GH and Tillage again side by side and post weekly pics of growth using a ruler to show heights. :way:
 
So, if I broadcast my brassica seed on the straw I obviously could not till in my urea. Could I topdress it then? At planting or down the road?


I would split the urea application if you can, 1/2 at planting and 1/2 at about 30 days perhaps.

As always spread urea within 24 hours of a 1/2 inch of rain...:way:
 
June 22, 2010

I recieved the Tillage brand radish seed from Albert Lea Seed House so I planted both Tillage and Groundhog brand radish seed side by side tonight. It is interesting to note that despite being a trademarked "brand" the seed is marked "VNS", origin in NZ.... ;)

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I added urea, all by hand of course but equal amounts as best I could and I also broadcasted some of each in our previously tilled but never planted garden. When I planted the earlier GH radish I had broadcasted some seed into the garden and it looks like it all came up!

We have had daily rains that include as much as 2" at a time so that is a big difference between that and overseeding in late summer when rains are less frequent, still with decent rainfall overseeding radish seed can work well.

The Groundhog brand radish that I planted a few weeks ago is growing like mad so I'll give weekly updates on growth of the first planting and the comparitive planting of Tillage and Groundhog and see how they pan out....:way:
 
So would it be possible to do the same to tall grass, spray it so it dies, then flatten it or just broadcast the purple top turnips and Dwarf Essex rape into it??
 
So would it be possible to do the same to tall grass, spray it so it dies, then flatten it or just broadcast the purple top turnips and Dwarf Essex rape into it??

You bet...but again, remember that brassicas love nitrogen so you need to be able to broadcast urea sometimes after seeding and get it on just before a minimum 1/2" of rain.

Tillage takes the "chance" out of the equation but otherwise your idea can and has worked well...:way:
 
June 27, 2010

Groundhog Radish at 5 days

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14 days

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21 days...now by golly that's some fast growth!

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I'll keep posting progress along with the second planting of GH and Tillage radish that so far appear identical at 5 days old

Groundhog at 5 days

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Tillage at 5 days

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This is seed that I broadcasted on top in the garden, obviously slower then seed that was covered and had better soil seed contact.

Groundhog

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Tillage

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After planting/broadcasting the above seeds we have had 2" of rain over several days and very warm humid temps, so results obviously would not be the same on dry soils with little or no rainfall.

What I am curious to see is how the plants will develop compared to those that were "planted"

These are some GH radishes that I had broadcasted at 21 days that are only slightly behind the "planted" seeds

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I hope to determine when they will reach "maturity" to know how soon is to soon as far as a planting date that will still leave them palatable for fall. All the ones I planted in July and late August last year were mowed to the ground long before they had a chance to mature.

They were all eaten before a frost and were eaten where they hadn't eaten other brassicas. Based on these growth pics you can see how it is possible to add them to a winter rye planting Sept 1st and have tremendous growth before frosts in early October.

Growth of course is dependant on nitrogen, soils, precipition and of course grazing pressure so everyone may see varying results... ;)
 
So, are you saying you're planting them AROUND Sept 1st? When is the earliest you feel comfortable planting and when's the latest??

I'm trying Ground hog Radishes for 1st time this year. Say as a stand alone OR in a mix with rye or maybe oats - how many acres would you like to plant (for example, I try to do beans at a minimum of 4 acres so deer don't destroy them)- what acreage amount minimum would you feel really comfortable with?

would you feel ok mixing with a low to medium seeding of Jerry Oats or would the oats be too competitive for radishes???

Other than rye (and maybe oats) what other mix in's would you do (winter peas, purple top turnips, etc?)

*sorry for the 20 questions! :)
 
So, are you saying you're planting them AROUND Sept 1st? When is the earliest you feel comfortable planting and when's the latest??

I'm trying Ground hog Radishes for 1st time this year. Say as a stand alone OR in a mix with rye or maybe oats - how many acres would you like to plant (for example, I try to do beans at a minimum of 4 acres so deer don't destroy them)- what acreage amount minimum would you feel really comfortable with?

would you feel ok mixing with a low to medium seeding of Jerry Oats or would the oats be too competitive for radishes???

Other than rye (and maybe oats) what other mix in's would you do (winter peas, purple top turnips, etc?)

*sorry for the 20 questions! :)


So far I know that anywhere from mid July to early September will work as far as planting dates. Since the pics I posted show tremendous growth in only 3 weeks, early September is not to late.

No idea how many it would take...much less on your place then mine because your able to grow more feed then I and have more ag crops near by.

All of mine have been in a mix with either other brassicas in July or winter rye/oats/peas in late August. Plant radish at 10#'s per acre alone but 5#'s in a mix.

Normally I don't reccomend planting brassicas with cereals because they have broad leaves that canopy and they compete by shading. The forage rdish has a more feathery leaf that is not quite so competitive so at 5#'s per are in a mix with rye or oats it works quite well.

You can also overseed the forage radish into standing soybeans in late August as they start to turn along with Winter Rye.

Look back thru the cereal grain thread and you'll see the ones I mixed with rye and how they grubbed them to the ground...:way:
 
Buddy has a lot of volunteer turnips growing from last year. Evidently the tops were eaten only but they are still flowering. He is just wondering if he should replant or leave for this year?
 
Buddy has a lot of volunteer turnips growing from last year. Evidently the tops were eaten only but they are still flowering. He is just wondering if he should replant or leave for this year?

From what I have seen it's a little like volunteer corn...it doesn't amount to much and usually becames more like a weed then a crop. I always till it up and replant and remember to avoid planting too many years in a row in the same spot.

Rotate crops...especially brassicas and it works best to till up the spent brassica plot in the spring and plant some clover (like berseem) or buckwheat for the summer.

Leaving that "mess" there to go to seed does nothing for his deer, for his soil or his budget. Always plant a cover crop that will break the disease cycle, fix nitrogen and feed deer until replanting....;)
 
Thanks Paul.

I thought so but have never encountered that problem because I rotate mine like you mentioned.
Hope you have a great holiday.
 
July 4th 2010

One thing for certain...no frost required to "sweeten" Groundhog radishes...

Not even a month since planting they are working these GH radishes over

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So far they have left the ones in the raised bed alone and they look like this at 28 days giving one an idea of growth if planted Sept 1st with winter rye for instance.

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The GH and Tillage tests so far reveal no difference in growth
Groundhog at 12 days

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Tillage at 12 days

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We have not had a drop of rain since June 27th so I watered the test plants but did not provide supplemental water for the plants in the garden. The soil has plenty of moisture so the established plants were unphased but the seed broadcasted on the bare soil germinated and then perished in the hot summer sun.

Any overseeded seeds either need continual moisture or the canopy of a crop such as beans to preserve soil moisture until seeds established roots...something to be aware of.... ;)
 
I decided on the following for my brasica mix this year:

5# Ground Hog Radish
1# Barnapoli Rape Seed
1# Barkant Forage turnip
1# Appin forage turnip
1# Pasja Hybrid Brassica

I have one spot in mind where so far deer have refused to touch anything but the GH forage/tillage radish so it seems like a great place to test the actual growth of turnips themselves. I'll plant them indivually in that spot and see how they stack up?

I usually include two types of rape but since deer seem to love the forage radish I'm going to go heavier on the radishes and a little lighter with the rape (canola).

The turnip types I chose are forage types that deer find the tops a little more palatable (perhaps not a good thing on my place!) so I'd like to see how they stack up individually this fall.

Testing varieties is something any landowner can do and see which one performs better or if there is little difference but so far in all the years I have grown brassicas one common theme has stood out...either deer love them all or hate them all regardless of brand or variety, the only exception being the forage radish...so far no deer seems able to resist them at my place... ;)
 
Mike sent me this pic of deer feeding in his brassica patch mid winter...a great reminder of why you need to include turnips alone with rape varieties for late winter food sources.

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Now you know why Mike uses the handle "deerwatcher".... ;)
 
Do Barkant & Appin create a sizable bulb?
Yes they do, the only advantage over the Purple Tops is that the leaves are more palatable so they provide more grazing.

I actually used 3# purple top, 1.5 # Winfred,1 #Rangi and 1#Dwarf Essex in that mix. That is the plot they hit right after all the beans, sugar beets and corn were pretty much wiped out. The straight purple top plot was the last they hit. I like the Winfred in my mixes a little more than others; I get great leaf size

That's a great mix and it obviously worked well! Thanks for sharing the pic with us Mike! :)

On another note I would add that for most of the midwest and northern areas, mid July is the perfect time to plant a brassica plot.

Here are a few things to remember...

Plant 5#'s per acre...seed is tiny so use the smallest setting

Use a bare minimum of 100#'s of urea and 150-200#'s will produce better results

If soil fertility is low, add 200-400#'s of 6-24-24 (or something close to that)

Till soil, broadcast fertilizer, till it in, cultipack, broadcast seed and re-cultipack to cover

Normally weeds are not a problem this time of year (as they would be in the spring) but if you have a problem spray 6-8 ounces of clethodim and one quart of crop oil per acre to kill any and all grasses without harm to the brassicas.

If broadleaf weeds invade...use Stinger or Garrison herbicides

Check the herbicide thread for more information and labels etc.

Usually if grasses were killed previously with glyphosate then the brassicas will be dense enough to out compete weeds but cool wet weather can cause problems....;)
 
Eatin' dust and snortin' dsl smoke! Farmin' for fun sure beats a day at the office!

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Burnin' daylight so I better get at it again today! :way:
 
Deerwatcher got his brassica plot ready by first nuking it with gly

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Then he ran his two tooth subsoiler over it....sweet!

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I suspect he has it all planted by now but the subsoiler left it looking like this

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Any type of heavy soils can stand some subsoiling now and then to break up hardpans and allow moisture to drain in instead of off. The channels also allow roots to penetrate deep into the subsoil for locked up nutrients.
Groundhog tillage radish can do much the same thing and Mike has some radish seed going into this plot along with his brassicas.... ;)
 
Brassica seed is tiny and I don't mean maybe! It's so tiny it's difficult to be certain of coverage and most of us tend to think we haven't put enough on. That leads to overseeding and stunted brassicas so here's a few thoughts that might prove helpful when broadcasting seed by hand rather then drilling.

Rape and turnip seeds...

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Forage radish seeds...

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We always want to cultipack first to firm the soil because otherwise it's terribly easy to bury the seed to deep....can you see the turnip seed in this pic??

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Radish seed is slightly larger and a bit easier to see

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I carry a few tools with me to insure that I only put the exact amount in the bag to cover the area to be seeded. I use a small scales that can weigh up to 2#'s of seed and a small pocket calculater along with a coffee can for dipping seed and in this case a bucket of mixed Pasja, Appin, Barkant turnips and Barnapoli Rape Seed and a seperate bucket of Ground Hog Forage radish.

I sowed 5#'s the rape/turnip mix and 5#'s of radish seed but if you budget will not allow heavy applications of nitrogen....cut those rates by 30-50%

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I also carry my Nikon 800 range finder and since I am dealing mostly in strips I range the end of the field and pace off the width of the strip.

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In this case the strips were all 150 yards long X 3 = 450' and they varied in width from 24 - 50 ft. An example then is 450' X 30' = 13500 square feet. 31% of 43,560 (square ft per acre) is roughly 13,500. I try to sow turnip and rape seed at 5#'s per acre so 31% of 5#'s is 1.55 so I can easily weigh out roughly a pound and a 1/2 and now with certainty that I have exactly the right amount of seed for that strip.

If I have a little left over I go back over the strip til it's gone but if the bag is full of seed it removes the temptation to put a LOT more on thinking I mave have not put on enough.

Even at that....how do you know what setting to put your seeder on??
In this case because the Groundhog Forage radish is slightly larger seed, I used it to set the opening.

A few seeds placed in the bag allow you to open the gate until the seeds can just pass thru...

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The set the stop for the gate which on my Earthway spreader is roughly 1.5

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After sowing one strip I then have confidence that I applied the correct amount of seed...had I run out or had twice too much I would have needed to make further adjustments but that setting (that just barely allows seeds to pass thru) worked perfectly.

Each strip or block was slightly different but I could quickly pace off the width and weigh out the exact amount of seed in moments. One the seeder is set of course weighing out each field or plot might not be necessary but I feel more comfortable knowing that I have a precise amount of seed with no guesswork.

Previous to seeding I had applied fertilizer and tilled it in, a soil test can takes some guess work out but brassicas tend to require at least 75#'s of nitrogen and 40 pounds of P2O5 and 80 pounds of K2O. On my friend Walt's place we used 400#'s of triple 19 to ensure we had 80#'s of each.

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On my own farm where P&K levels have been maintained but grazing pressure is intense I used 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea and 200#'s of 6-24-24 per acre. I had smaller strips so I applied the fertilizer with my bag seeder using the same calculations as for the seed. I didn't weigh it out but if I needed 44#'s I left a few pounds in the bag or if I needed 70#'s I used a bag and a 1/2. I opened the gate all the way and walked at a good clip and got pretty even and accurate coverage.

The importance of cultipackers when sowing brassicas cannot be over emphasised if you can get ahold of one. Walt's is a 4 footer and is slightly narrower then my 60" tiller.

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Mine is 6' so it covers my wheel tracks well. Note my finely engineered, redneck approved hitch! :p

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Mike on the otherhand is a classier plotter and has a neat 3 pt hitch packer that also does a beautiful job!:way:

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I pull the packer behind the tiller when tilling in the fertilizer so it's ready to sow seed, then broadcast seed and re-pack.

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One advantage of strip plotting is that deer always have food sources even while the brassicas are growing. Here you can see the white and red clover that was planted last fall with winter rye that is not only feeding deer but fixing nitrogen at the same time.

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On the other side of the planted brassicas is a white clover strip that will remain in clover for several years. We just keep rotating each year...brassicas where rye and clover was and rye and clover where brassicas were. It's a no brainer method of having all your favorite food sources in one field every year without planting them in the same spot, thus controlling pests and disease.

At the end of the day it's nice to look back on a job well done....this morning we got 2 1/2" of rain! Thank you God!

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and dream about those big boys munching on turnips in December...

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Plenty of time to get brassicas planted if you haven't already!:)
 
Often we end up with some left over seed each year and if kept stored in a dry place, most seed keeps well. It's easy to do a ragdoll test the following planting season by wrapping some seed up in a moist paper towel and then counting the germinated seeds to give you a % of germination.

My friend Jordon shared this pic on Outreach of some 2 year old rape and turnip seed after only 24 hours! Obviously the seed is still good and he can expect a great crop.

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Some seeds take a while to actually germinate so don't wait til the night before you plant to check germination and keep your leftover seeds in a bucket or tote with a tight sealing lid for use next year....;)
 
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