If u use treated urea- can leave on surface. If u use non-treated urea - if u disc it in, all set. Both methods will keep it there & rain won’t be an issue. U r in perfect shape.
Khughes2345
PMA Member
We used non treated urea and tilled it in along with other fertilizer. So hope that helps, and it doesn’t all evaporate. We might have gotten a sprinkle at our farm but that’s it. Was calling for 1/2” but it all went south of us.
I started a new plot in some crp. Mowed it about 3 weeks ago and sprayed it 2 weeks ago. Probably should have lit it on fire but we just used the tiller and went over it a bunch. There’s some areas with a lot of thatch from the crp, but we packed it down and seeded then packed it again. Hoping that thatch doesn’t prevent it from growing. But if it’s spotty in a few weeks I’ll replant those areas.
I started a new plot in some crp. Mowed it about 3 weeks ago and sprayed it 2 weeks ago. Probably should have lit it on fire but we just used the tiller and went over it a bunch. There’s some areas with a lot of thatch from the crp, but we packed it down and seeded then packed it again. Hoping that thatch doesn’t prevent it from growing. But if it’s spotty in a few weeks I’ll replant those areas.
Khughes2345
PMA Member
Here’s the plot in the crp
Closer look of the ground
Another shot where you can actually see some dirt
Closer look of the ground
Another shot where you can actually see some dirt
Thinkin Rut
PMA Member
What is the added cost on treating it?
Brett Morris
PMA Member
Get treated urea just to be safe
I’m guessing treatment comes out to about $5/acre. Guess. It’s not much. U can buy retail 2.5 gallon jugs of agrotain for about $250 and that would treat a lot of urea!! When I did smaller scale- I bought a jug & lasted a long time. just put on tarp or in tractor bucket sprayed with lil quart sized pump sprayer & mixed/sprayed so all coated. Jug will last years on small scale.
with drought - I’d still plant. Unless the subsoil moisture is gone. End of July is classic drought time. If subsoil moisture - plant. If really bad, wait for rain then plant when dries up so u replenish moisture some.
with drought - I’d still plant. Unless the subsoil moisture is gone. End of July is classic drought time. If subsoil moisture - plant. If really bad, wait for rain then plant when dries up so u replenish moisture some.
Is seed in ground ? For guys with good quality soil with good organic matter or some residue on top... still is ALMOST a non-issue... once it rains it will get going and can survive good bit without rain. Second you throw more obstacles... “I tore up soil” (which sends moisture BYE-BYE) or its on poor quality soil with low organic matter - ya- issues. I’d still probably seed it and just go back with a bag spreader with extra seed and fill in sparse areas. Brassicas go straight down & find moisture so it is fairly tough to kill if they can get decent start. In dire conditions - again, wait for moisture to get back in soil. Next 1-2 weeks a guy can thicken or establish brassicas. With each passing day they might be smaller but not a lost cause by far.
^^^example from Khughes above - that’s great example of no tilling into some residue that will hold moisture. If I was looking at that- I’d plant immediately.
risto2351
Well-Known Member
A week ago Sunday they had almost an inch of rain, none since. Brought the cultipacker back to the house at 10 Saturday night after last pass after seeding it. Yes, we plowed it up this time and smoothed it out with the disc. It really needed it because we haven't done it in the last 10 years. Have to wait and see. It will grow but would of been nice to catch that first rain within a day or two of planting.
Khughes2345
PMA Member
Skip, I checked that field Saturday when I was mowing some clover and it’s all starting to come up, really small but it’s there. I was a little worried with all the residue left over from the crp, but it’s actually helping hold moisture. Other field that we disced up, looking pretty bare and dry. Got a picture of a deer running thru it this afternoon and huge dust cloud behind it. Calling for slight chance of rain this weekend. We’ll see
scottonbuck
Well-Known Member
All that thatch residue will act like mulch and keep the ground from getting scorched. It will also hold the moisture if it rains so its a win win!! I have no tilled brassicas into mowed that in years that soil moisture was a real concern/drought years and they turned out well.
Checked over about 5-6 areas planted. All looks good. This year I had 2 obstacles.... some ag beans got pummeled by deer. I needed to add some N. Picked up a cart of “TREATED UREA + P-K, & lil zinc, boron & sulfur”. Get to field.... the coop forgot to treat it!!! 
. So- I barely turned over- just to cover urea. Hated doing it but that’s ok. Packed, Spread with hand seeder & Cultimulched it again. Checked today. Looks fantastic. Not much to look at now or real exciting BUT.... 4-5 more weeks should look great!!
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. So- I barely turned over- just to cover urea. Hated doing it but that’s ok. Packed, Spread with hand seeder & Cultimulched it again. Checked today. Looks fantastic. Not much to look at now or real exciting BUT.... 4-5 more weeks should look great!! 
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Matthewfox_45
Well-Known Member
I checked on my brassica plot last weekend. I planted it July 18 or 19. I seeded the plot to clover in February hoping the clover could be a cover crop and same me some money on urea. Sprayed it a week or two before seeding the brassicas. Came back, disced it a few times and then seeded. I’m thrilled with it so far. It’s coming in nicely and the brassicas are roughly ankle high.
I've got a farm near that one. Same rain. Both had decent subsoil moisture. His just got going and mine didn't.