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Native Warm Season Grass

Re: Native Warm Season Grass - Little Bluestem

The ranger said they burn at least every other year. I think that is the ticket to NWSG for sure. I've never seen NWSG fail from "too much" burning. I would think in your case, late burning would help set back cool seasons and keep the WSG coming on strong.

I'm not really sure when the proper time to collect seed is...I suppose right about in the middle of hunting season

I've got some nice Little bluestem just starting to go to seed...how the heck does one collect that fuzzy stuff??

LittleBluestem.jpg


I really like Little Bluestem for pheasant nesting cover, note the red/blue hues that LB that change the plants apppearance especially after frosts.


LittleBluestem1.jpg



How long would it take to collect enough seed to plant an acre??

LittleBlustem2.jpg


Here's a link to more good pics of Little Bluestem and the fluffy little "spikelets": Little Bluestem

Here are some more pics of Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) and supporting information:





The dominant forage of the True Prairie and considered one of the "big four" grasses. The leaves often have a blue-green appearance and the stems are flattened, especially near the base of the plant.

It has a single inflorescence which emerges from a slightly inflated leaf. It provides screening and nesting cover for some wildlife species and good forage for cattle.



Little Bluestem is often confused with Broomsedge Bluestem (Andropogon virginicus):





Typically occurs on infertile, moist soils and is a common grass of go-back lands. Similar to Little bluestem but with a split inflorescence and a more straw-colored appearance when dormant.

It provides screening and nesting cover for some wildlife species. It is a poor to fair forage for cattle.

Look for the difference between the two in this way:




It is easily mistaken for common broomsedge (Andropogon virginicus) except little bluestem has very flat bluish basal shoots.

Broomsedge has a straight awn and has two or more stalked seed clusters per branch. Little bluestem has a twisted, bent awn and a single cluster of seeds per branch.

LB Awns




Broomsedge awns

anvi2_009_lvp.jpg


Broomsedge is rare in Iowa: broomsedge bluestem in Iowa



Although broomsedge is a close relative of big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii), it is not a Midwestern prairie grass and is not common in Iowa. In fact, its occurrence in Iowa is documented by one specimen from Wapello county, collected in 1941 by Dr. Ada Hayden, the former curator of ISU’s herbarium and the first woman to earn a doctorate from Iowa State.

Dr. Tom Rosberg (Drake University) also reports occurrences of this species in Appanoose and Ringgold Counties. Broomsedge is a common weedy plant in the eastern and southern U.S., where it occurs in abandoned fields, hillsides and thin woods. It is frequently found in disturbed areas, and is considered an indicator of poor soil.



This link contains more great pics of both of these plants as well as other NWSG's

NWSG Identification and description

mp0903broomsedge03.jpg


Good soil fertlity can make broomsedge "go away"...


This native warm-season grass is often confused with little bluestem.

Compared with little bluestem, broomsedge stems are the more flattened and more densely leafed.

Also, broomsedge in the fall/winter is typically yellowish tan, while little bluestem has a bronzy color. It is usually no more than 2 feet tall at maturity. Seeds are light and fluffy. Dense stands are often indicative of acid soils, phosphorus deficiency or overgrazing.

Lime and fertilizer application may cause broomsedge to decline or disappear.






This is perhaps a better picture of broomsedge bluestem in the field:

0040brsedgehabit.jpg


and a seed pic

0040brsedgeseed2.jpg


Little Bluestem



Little bluestem is found throughout the Midwest on moderately dry (mesic) to dry soils.

This native grass occurs in clumps with fine leaves less than 1/4 inch wide. Seed stalks are commonly 2 to 3 feet tall, but may reach 4 feet on better soils.

Stems are hairy and flattened near the base. Seeds are light and fluffy, giving the plant a feathery appearance.

Little bluestem has a striking appearance after frost, when it attains a coppery hue.

This grass is commonly confused with broomsedge.





Little Bluestem is a clump grass

mp0903littlebluestem02.jpg


Which really shows up after burning

mp0903littlebluestem03.jpg




Little bluestem seeds are light and fluffy, covered in fine hairs



mp0903littlebluestem04.jpg
 
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Here's a few fall pics of my 10 year old stand of NWSG. It is very beautiful grass and really neat cover.

This is Indiangrass and Big Bluestem which is over my head!

IndiannBigBluestem.jpg


This particuler stand has bever been burned (although I hope to next year) and it is very very thick!

Indiangrass.jpg


I established that stand the hard way, since I had never heard of Plateau at that time but three years later it was an amazing transformation from the "dead sea" of brome that was there
 
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I haven't checked to see if the prices listed are current but if they are it seems that prairie grass seed is very reasonable right now /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif

Osenbaugh's Prairie Seed Farm

I had heard seed was going up so I'll try to find out for sure...

Here's some more fall pics of Little Bluestem...you can notice it along road ways by the "fluffy white seed"...

LittleBluestemseed.jpg


Little Bluestem prfers drier soils
LittleBluestemplants.jpg


This patch happens to be on some good moist low ground though...

LittleBluestemPlanting.jpg


Like switchgrass it stands pretty well thru winter weather but isn't as tall or thick which is why quail prefer it.

Keep in mind that broomsedge bluestem prefers very poor soils and will most like appear in areas that are acidic and lacking in phosphorus.
 
Re: Plateau/Journey herbicide for NWSG

great pics all. Pharmer, thats about the nicest natural picture I've seen...really nice. I had natives planted this June. Many weeds, but there appears to be big blue identifiable...a bit thin, but I'm hoping it will thicken up in coming years. I have 2 questions, first, would it be too soon to burn next year? I have read that a first year burn is hard on the flowers and my DNR rep said wait until 2008 but I'd like to know your opinion. Second, I have areas of thistle(various kinds) spreading out. I tried to spot spray this summer, but anything I can do to knock these back a bit? they seem to be concentrated in a few areas. Dig them out? They seemed to grab hold in some areas that didn't have much native growth.
 
I had natives planted this June. Many weeds, but there appears to be big blue identifiable...a bit thin, but I'm hoping it will thicken up in coming years. I have 2 questions, first, would it be too soon to burn next year?

It is generally better to wait several years before burning after establishing a new NWSG seeding.


If you want to invigorate a grass with a prescribed burn, the best time to burn is when that grass has 3 to 4 inches of new growth ... depending on the species. If you want to severely set back a grass, burn it just before it starts to develop seedheads.

In Iowa ...

Feb-March- early April burns are great for early forbs and cool season grasses and promoting new growth of shrubs in a timber stand.

May-June burns will invigorate a stand of warm season native grass but sets back cool season grasses and woody species and it can kill understory brush in a timber burn.

July-Sept burns can set back warm season native grasses if they are too thick and release forbs.




Here's a great link sent to me by Ibohunt65 : Long term results of different burn timing
They've been burning since 1928!!

Clip the thistles before they go to seed and spot spray. I always have them also and they can be tough to get rid of

This is a pic of some first year NWSG and switchgrass that I used Plateau herbicide on. Plateau is hard on switchgrass unless it's a mature stand.

The plants grow down not up the first year so there wouldn't be a whole lot to burn the first year.

Note the Big Bluestem in the background is much taller since it is resistant to Plateau.

FirstyearPlateau.jpg


This is switch in the foreground and NWSG in the background...you can barely see my son walking thru that stuff...and he's nearly 6'!!

NWSGMix-1.jpg


Closeup of NWSG mix...mostly Indiangrass in this pic.

NWSG1-1.jpg


This is Little Bluestem in the foreground and switchgrass in the background:

LBSnSwitchgrass.jpg


This is Big Bluestem...already "leaning"

BigBluestem.jpg


I think I have some of Bonker's RR thistles

DecNWSG.jpg


Once stands are established or if you have native stands that need to be released I think late spring burning is the best bet.

Burning sets back the cool season grasses and encourages the warm seasons. The NWSG seed is there...just give it a chance!
 
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Right now is a perfect time to get your NWSG mix planted /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif

Except for the wildflowers Big Bluestem and Indiangrass germinate much easier then switchgrass so you can plant all the way to the first of June.

Germination will be better for much of the mix though if seeded during the "wet/chill" period of late winter/early spring.

Right now you can broadcast or no-till drill on killed, mowed or burned sod and spray with Journey or Plateau as soon as grass greens up in early April.

Here's a pic of mostly Big Bluestem still standing after plenty of winter weather although most of the Indiangrass has went down.

BigBluesteminMarch.jpg


Not as thick as switchgrass but compared to brome...well there is no comparison. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

Brome:

Brome.jpg


Where would you want to bed if you were a deer or nest if a pheasant???
 
Re: Plateau/Journey herbicide for NWSG

Nice pictures. Do you think it's possible that grasses that have "laid-down" happened because of competition? When you seed and then spray the green, you kill most of the competition which would allow for better root growth, right? Maybe it was planted too heavily too..??

Seems as though the prairie reconstructions I've been apart of, most were unwilling to spray after planting...they just couldn't convince the farmers that germination of native grasses and forbes is 10-21 days...and the farmers thought the green 4-6 days after planting was the GOOD stuff, when really it was the competition. The areas that were able to be sprayed after planting turned out to be a lot better plots two years after planting than those that weren't sprayed.

I offered up the idea spraying plantings when I worked for the Missouri Department of Conservation in St. Louis and they looked at me like I was on crack. I figured them of all people would enjoy the idea of that since the had me spraying (this or that) almost the whole time I was there. OH WELL, I'm glad to be back in Iowa, Missourian I am NOT!!!
 
Do you think it's possible that grasses that have "laid-down" happened because of competition?

Maybe it was planted too heavily too..??

Standability is something that is a trait inherit to certain species or varieties among a species of grass.


I've seen one variety of corn go flat as a pancake while another with stood the wind in the same field.

Among species:

I have never seen any variety of switchgrass on any type of soil go flat.

It will bend under heavy snows but will return after the snow melts.

I have a wild native Big Bluestem (wind blown seed) that goes flat if you breathe on it while other varieties purchased from Osenbaugh Seeds stand nearly as well as the switchgrass.

Indiangrass seems to go down fairly easily sometimes before winter even and I have planted several varieties.

The NWSG mix provides a good diversified nesting mix as well as deer bedding area but sometimes not the best winter cover





Seems as though the prairie reconstructions I've been apart of, most were unwilling to spray after planting...they just couldn't convince the farmers that germination of native grasses and forbes is 10-21 days...and the farmers thought the green 4-6 days after planting was the GOOD stuff, when really it was the competition. The areas that were able to be sprayed after planting turned out to be a lot better plots two years after planting than those that weren't sprayed.






Spraying NWSG is like using herbicide on tree plantings...

Mowing will do the trick but growth will be slower and in the case of NWSG it often takes 3 years to get a good stand.

Herbicide is expensive so many choose to take the long route which is certainly understandable.

I just don't want to wait that long /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
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Re: Plateau/Journey herbicide for NWSG

is Journey/Plateau something a non-license can get a hold of? is it available at Farm and Fleets/TSC's? I haven't run acrossed it under that name. I'm thinking I should spray my areas in April and was wondering if I could get my hands on it.
 
is Journey/Plateau something a non-license can get a hold of? is it available at Farm and Fleets/TSC's? I haven't run acrossed it under that name. I'm thinking I should spray my areas in April and was wondering if I could get my hands on it.


Journey can be ordered thru Townsend Chemical but remember it contains Roundup and must be sprayed on in very early spring before the WSG emerges.



Journey can be ordered through us. Cost per gallon is $130.00. Smallest container is
2 1/2 gallons. If order is 5 gallons or more, there is no freight cost. One
2 1/2 gallon container freight cost is $7.00. This is a stock item for us.
We do accept Master Card & VISA. You call and order 800-616-4221 or via
email.

Thanks for the inquiry.
Norman S Gantt
Gen / Ops Manager




Plateau is only available thru some Pheasants Forever chapters. Best bet is to contact your state/area PF biologist.

Plateau can be sprayed on at anytime.
 
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Planting Native Warm Season Grass

You can seed the "Fluffy" NWSG by hand but no matter if you do it by hand or with a drill you must use a seeder adapted for this type of seed.

Otherwise it will be a long frustrating day in the field /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif

There are Truax and Great Plains drills adapted for NWSG seed and many county conservation offices have them to rent for a few bucks an acre.

For only an acre or two...I use one of these Truax hand seeders built to handle fluffy seeds.

It is heavy and cumbersome but the only handseeder I'm aware of that will work.

It was an auger inside to pull the seed toward fingers that pull the seed downward:

TruaxFluffyseeder.jpg


It also has a front compartment to hold small seeds:

TruaxFluffyseeder1.jpg


Full of seed it's hard on the shoulders and the fluffy seed doesn't spread very far, so you may need some Advil at the end of the day! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

NWSGSeedmix.jpg


Close up of the mix of Big Bluestem, Indiangrass and Little Bluestem seed:

NWSGSeed.jpg


Closeup of the wildflower and switchgrass seed in the mix.

Both these type of seeds are very dormant and need the wet/chill of late winter to stratify them so they will germinate.

Wildflowerandswitchgrassseed.jpg


I planted on sod that I killed last year with roundup and Plateau (Journey is a readily available combo of the two)

Plateautreated-1.jpg


NWSG mixes often may do better on poor soils, although certain species may dominate.

In this case switchgrass would have been better then this Indiangrass which went flat as a pancake on this rich moist soil.

IniangrassinMarch.jpg


Seed prices have skyrocketed in part (so I'm told) because many NWSG seed producers are planning on plowing under thier native's to plant corn.

I'm not sure if this is fact or a "percieved possibilty" but there very well may be truth to it.

There has been no huge new CRP signup so there is no obvious reason for the price hike (kinda reminds of the situation with oil companies :/)

You can plant NWSG mix later in the spring and of course expensive residual herbicides may be left out.

You must kill the current vegetation with roundup which could even be done shortly after seeding (although the previous fall is best to allow vegeatation to die down)

Plan on clipping your new NWSG 8-10" high as weeds reach beyond that.

Without herbicide it wil take approximately 3 years to achieve a good healthy mature stand of NWSG but eventually you'll have a very diverse and beautiful stand of wildlife habitat! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
Tramping thru my prairie grass yesterday I took these pics of some Big Bluestem that went flat over the winter:

BigBluestemDown.jpg


You can see the Little Bluestem in the lower left corner...that stuff is like Switchgrass, almost never goes down:

BigBluestemFlat.jpg


This Native mix is in another field and it has stood better although protected by woods and a hillside.

A rooster pheasant scooted out from under some of it but if I got him in the pic...I can't make him out.

NWSGMix-2.jpg


Birds sure rely on the tallgrass even into late spring until crops and other cover starts to grow.
waytogo.gif
 
Here are some pics of my Native Grasses last week just to give those with new seedings an idea when they start to grow...not yet!
Big Bluestem on April 19th:

04-17BigBluestem.jpg


Little Bluestem:

04-17LittleBluestem.jpg


Switchgrass:

04-17Switchgrass.jpg


This is an area at the edge of my prairie along a lane...so you can see that cool seasons are the only thing green at this point:

Aprilsodcomparison.jpg


I'll be burning these fields soon and it's easy to see why timing is important.

Had I burned a month ago...the cool seasons would have had a month and more to gain ground.

By waiting...fire will set back the cool seasons and when the NWSG starts to grow it will be able to compete and even dominate.
 
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I posted pictures of my burn in the switchgrass thread but here's a pic of Big Bluestem about 10 days after the burn:

BigBluestemafterburn.jpg


The WSG greens up way faster when the ground is blackend and the "stubble" removed.

Prairieregrowth.jpg


I'll add some more pics soon but with all this rain I would need a "swamp buggy" to get near the place!
smirk.gif
 
After burning the NWSG this past spring...

Switchfire2.jpg


it looks like this in August...

S5000207.jpg


Fire sure helps rejuvenate the tall grasses! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
Few September pics of my NWSG stands after being burned this past spring.

Indiangrass/Bigbluestem mix:

IndiangrassnBigBluestem.jpg


SeptNWSG1.jpg


SeptNWSG2.jpg


This along a mowed lane which gives a better idea how tall the native grass can get.

NWSG3.jpg


Hard to show the "clumpy" nature of natives in this pic but it enables birds and other wildlife to travel in this "jungle" versus brome or fescue which is a solid mass and becomes a "desert waste land" for wildlife.

NWSGClumps.jpg


As a side note...the areas that I tilled up for a fire break exploded into a beautiful stand of...

ragweed! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

RagweedBurnlane.jpg


If you want to enhance your NWSG stand for quail and pheasants...it's very easy! Just hit some areas with a disc or tiller and leave it alone!

RagweedPatch.jpg


I jumped several pheasants out of these ragweed strips so don't be afraid to think out side the box so to speak and have some "weedy areas" on your farm /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif

If you have any pics to share of your own NWSG plantings...especially if they are new and "a work in progress"...please share them with us in this thread. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Re: Native Warm Season Grass - Winter Cover

Winter is a great time to tramp thru some Native Grass stands in the area and see how they are holding up under the weather, especially in a fairly hard winter such as we have been having.

I prefer pure stands of Cave In Rock switchgrass for best winter cover and mixed NWSG stands for diverse summer nesting and feeding areas and winter is a great time to learn why...

These are a series of pics taken in February 2008 of my own mixed NWSG stands to give you some idea how they are holding up after heavy winter ice and snow.

Really they have done pretty well but many areas still end up pretty flat.

NWSG7.jpg


Other areas have fared better:

NWSG6.jpg


NWSG8.jpg


You can see how snow tends to push the Big Bluestem and Indiangrass flat in sometimes large areas.

NWSG9.jpg


NWSG4.jpg


This area looks amazing well! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

NWSG5.jpg


NWSG3-1.jpg


NWSG2.jpg


NWSG4.jpg


This is some Little Bluestem growing on some poor soil in a thin area. Ilike LB but it doesn't compete very well with the Tallgrass.

LittleBluestem-1.jpg


Interesting that after burning my Indiangrass has out competed the Big Bluestem in many areas?

Indiangrass2.jpg


Doesn't stand up well either though...

Indiangrass4.jpg


Indiangrass3.jpg


Indiangrass-1.jpg


I'll post some winter Switchgrass pics tomorrow for comparison. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Here is a chunk of brome we are hoping to burn this early May, it has some little blue stem and big blue stem coming through but there is much more laying they waiting to sprout. We thought about planting trees on the hillside but this is a large hot, dry south facing hillside, we were strongly encouraged to put in NWSG. Should be interesting seeing how it looks on a slightly steeper slope than flat ground, I hope it comes in full and thick.

101_0302.jpg

107_0155.jpg


In this last picture you can sort of see some red tint that is the NWSG poking through

101_0278.jpg
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a chunk of brome we are hoping to burn this early May, it has some little blue stem and big blue stem coming through but there is much more laying they waiting to sprout. </div></div>

Remember to burn late if your going to use burning alone to encourage the native grasses. If you plan to kill the brome with roundup then you'll need to burn very early and spray the brome at first green up.

Keep us posted on your project! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
once my grass matured it turned the corner on my farm.Almost no people in maryland have this type grass.
doug

killplot.jpg
 
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