Switchgrass

[dbltree]

May 20, 2012

There are many different varieties of switchgrass, each adapted to different areas of the country but Cave In Rock is best adapted to Midwest states like Iowa where summers are often extremely hot and dry and winters can be brutally cold. CIR is one of the toughest, tallest, rankest varieties which is great for those of us desiring whitetail cover. Varieties like Kanlow can grow taller but are subject to winter kill and cannot hold up under heavy winter snows.

One problem with CIR is that the seed often exhibits a high degree of dormancy, a problem easily solved by dormant seeding in January and February to allow the cold wet chill of winter rains and snow melt to soften or "stratify" the seed allowing it to germinate in the spring.

The following is a great link to ISU recommendations on seeding CIR that I would encourage anyone thinking about planting switchgrass to read...

Switchgrass Seeding Recommendations

A common reason for failure in any NWSG planting is planting the seed to deep, usually when using a drill (the same can happen with clover seeds as well) so another advantage to broadcasting or drilling seed into frozen soils is that it is impossible to seed it to deep. Seed should be 1/8 to 1/2" deep which can be challenging when drilling into soft springtime soils so over nearly two decades of establishing both switchgrass and NWSG mixes I have always dormant/winter seeded with great success.

Recently I purchased a no-till drill capable of sowing fluffy native grass seeds because of a high demand for NWSG sowing due to the high number of acres of CRP in my area. Fluffy seeds are generally not dormant and can be sown fall thru late spring...

These drills are extremely expensive so for the average landowner, a simple bag seeder or ATV seeder will allow them to frost seed switchgrass with a minimal investment but because I have this drill for doing custom work it allows me to experiment and share the results to give you more options or...ideas to forget trying!

I had a chance to pick up some year old CIR seed (meaning it should have a lower degree of dormancy) and bought some Kanlow seed to mix with it (VERY expensive seed!) and prepared the area by mowing in early April, allowing the area to green up and spraying 2 quarts of glyphosate and 1 quart of crop oil in late April.

You can see that combination smoked the fescue sod on the left

Since planting depth is critical it takes some time to set up a new drill and then constant watch and adjusting for different soil conditions. This Great Plains (with Land Pride decals) has a depth wheel on the front that helps set the depth that the no-till coulters can go to...I adjusted the wheel down one hole after this pic was taken.

In this pic the coulters are way to deep

so I kept adjusting to plant shallower

I used the small seed box which allows the tiny seeds to drop out well be hind the disc openers and just ahead of the packer wheels

the switch seed is so tiny it is almost impossible to see but generally a small % of seed should be on top of the soil...

It is always best to avoid tilling the soil...tilled soil is loose and soft making planting the seed shallow a serious challenge plus tillage encourages weed growth. The no-till coulters easily slice thru the killed sod yet ride up on the firm surface to keep seed shallow.

The drill barely leaves a "mark"...something that is important on HEL soils

After drilling the seed I followed up with a quart of gly (to kill any new weed/grass growth coming up) 2 quarts of simazine and 2 ounces of Plateau/Panoramic. There are several possible herbicide combinations both pre and post emergence that I am trying to see if one or the other performs better then another and how switchgrass is affected by it.

I also drilled about an acre and a half of low ground where a previous NWSG seeding failed due to flooded soils. Kanlow and CIR both thrive on rich lowland soils and can tolerate some flooding once established. In this field the weeds had not been previously killed, so I no-tilled in the seed, and then followed with the above gly/simazine/Plateau combo.

Plateau can kill switch seedlings when used at rates above 4 ounces so I am experimenting a bit here....stay tuned...

 

[spltbrow]

How long does it typically take for the switch and canlow to germinate? I planted some on the 14th of April and as of last weekend I have not seen any germination yet. I did have some random weeds so I went ahead and hit those again with gly. The corn we planted in the grass was about 3" tall. I haven't been up to the farm in the last week to check again?

 

[dbltree]

How long does it typically take for the switch and canlow to germinate? I planted some on the 14th of April and as of last weekend I have not seen any germination yet. I did have some random weeds so I went ahead and hit those again with gly. The corn we planted in the grass was about 3" tall. I haven't been up to the farm in the last week to check again?

Sometimes it can take forever or so it seems...it's a warm season grass so it takes very warm soils to germinate and then the seedlings grow down rather then up the first year.

How did you plant it?

 

[spltbrow]

I disced it then I took a pulverized over it multiple time to smooth and fine toon it then I broadcasted seed while it was drizzling out. So it never really got packed with a roller. I was figuring the rain and the loose pulverized soil would soak the seed in.

 

[dbltree]

I disced it then I took a pulverized over it multiple time to smooth and fine toon it then I broadcasted seed while it was drizzling out. So it never really got packed with a roller. I was figuring the rain and the loose pulverized soil would soak the seed in.

Hmmm...would have preferred you didn't til the soil, a very firm untilled surface is best and it's best to frost seed it in the inter time for several reasons. Freezing thawing action will help the seed make soil contact and enable germination, the cold wet chill of winter will help stratify dormant seed that otherwise may not sprout til next year.

Lot of unknown variables in your situation...is the seed dormant? is the surface settled enough? Is seed making contact versus just laying on the soil?

Keep us posted but as with any NWSG look at it in late August to get a better feel for how it did, way to early right now.

 

[gatzow]

I have a field of 2nd year switch, also with a mix of big bluestem and indian grass. I live in Wisconsin. Weeds came up early this year, some thistles, etc. Am I best off just to keep cutting that field at 6-10 inches until the switch really starts to grow?

I also frost seeded a different field in March. Weeds have moved into that field as well, especially large thistles. Any suggestions?

3rd question - I am working on a large field - about 8-10 acres. It is being bulldozed right now as I have a major ant problem in that field. at least 100 2-4 foot tall ant hills were in it, so the only thing I could think of was bull doze the field so that I could actually work in it. I have 100lbs of seed waiting for the bulldozer to finish. My plan is to spray with round up once the bulldozer is finished and rent a grain drill to plant. Am I better off with the grain drill or just broadcast seeding and use a culipacker?

Thanks for your help.

 

[dbltree]

I have a field of 2nd year switch, also with a mix of big bluestem and indian grass. I live in Wisconsin. Weeds came up early this year, some thistles, etc. Am I best off just to keep cutting that field at 6-10 inches until the switch really starts to grow?

I also frost seeded a different field in March. Weeds have moved into that field as well, especially large thistles. Any suggestions?

3rd question - I am working on a large field - about 8-10 acres. It is being bulldozed right now as I have a major ant problem in that field. at least 100 2-4 foot tall ant hills were in it, so the only thing I could think of was bull doze the field so that I could actually work in it. I have 100lbs of seed waiting for the bulldozer to finish. My plan is to spray with round up once the bulldozer is finished and rent a grain drill to plant. Am I better off with the grain drill or just broadcast seeding and use a culipacker?

Thanks for your help.

I would clip weeds high at 10-12" as needed...once grasses have 3-4 leaves you can use 2-4D and/or use Milestone to kill thistles

Milestone Source

If the entire surface has not been tilled I would use a no-till drill at this point.

 

[gatzow]

I need to spray the bigger field with Gly. I cannot afford to pay 100 per gallon of actual round up. What do you all use to help manage $$?

Has anyone used this?
http://www.ruralking.com/41-2-5-gal-glyphosate.html?cvsfa=1908&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=303632353830323833

Any other suggestions as to what works well for general weeds?

 

[gatzow]

I would clip weeds high at 10-12" as needed...once grasses have 3-4 leaves you can use 2-4D and/or use Milestone to kill thistles

Milestone Source

If the entire surface has not been tilled I would use a no-till drill at this point.

Thank you for your guidance. I will order some milestone and spray. Milestone is safe for switch, big bluestem and indian grass, right? It looks that way from reading online, but wanted to validate before I make a costly mistake.

 

[dbltree]

Thank you for your guidance. I will order some milestone and spray. Milestone is safe for switch, big bluestem and indian grass, right? It looks that way from reading online, but wanted to validate before I make a costly mistake.

Yes...safe on NWSG and you can buy generic glyphosate (roundup) at most co-op's for $20 a gallon or less

 

[Jbohn]

I was out and checked my field of 20 acres I frosted seed in January, I dont see any grass germinating is it possible it could be late coming up or maybe didnt take this year, we have had high temps not a lot of rain, Illinois, west central..

 

[Scott]

I was out and checked my field of 20 acres I frosted seed in January, I dont see any grass germinating is it possible it could be late coming up or maybe didnt take this year, we have had high temps not a lot of rain, Illinois, west central..

I didnt have any up last year until June 5th, I would say wait a couple more weeks yet. You get good weed control?

 

[gatzow]

I was out and checked my field of 20 acres I frosted seed in January, I dont see any grass germinating is it possible it could be late coming up or maybe didnt take this year, we have had high temps not a lot of rain, Illinois, west central..

I frost seeded a field in March - nothing yet. I live in southeast wisconsin. Trying to be patient... (and trying to keep the thistles under control.....)

 

[dbltree]

Look in late August...until then it'll just drive you crazy...

 

[Crimson Arrows]

Good friend Monte planted some switch grass and big blue/indian on my place in March and used Atrazine/Gly and Plateau. He got a great kill and I thought you guys would want to see this.

I went out yesterday and noticed this awesome clump of first year switch....just kidding However, it is switch but "released" switch, once the competition had died off, I am guessing it came up as was dormant when sprayed with gly this spring although Paul can add to that thought I hope, as Im not sure.

Here, you can see other clumps coming up, again, released switch Im guessing.

Nothing yet from this years planting as Paul has always taught me it grows DOWN first, which should give us all confidence it is establishing its base for years to come. I did see this little guy in a row, so maybe its the beginning as we had perfect planting and spray conditions it seemed.

 

[spltbrow]

My new switch is finally just starting to pop up. Finally!!

 

[spltbrow]

I do have some spotty weeds in spots that I may just go out and spot spray as the switch is not coming up everywhere but is definitely starting to pop up. Thistles seem to be my biggest weed problem. Little patches of grass here and there and one area with some type off vine starting. This recent rain will hopefully get the switch going when we get some more warm temps this weekend.

 

[Jbohn]

I had great weed control outside I have a bit of Johnsongrass that didnt get killed, I sprayed last week with plateau at 4oz an acre I am sure it was a gamble. I wanted to spray outrider but my co-op doesnt have the product. Hopefully I didnt kill anyseedling I didnt see any but not sure what I am looking for. Any thoughts ?

 

[dbltree]

I had great weed control outside I have a bit of Johnsongrass that didnt get killed, I sprayed last week with plateau at 4oz an acre I am sure it was a gamble. I wanted to spray outrider but my co-op doesnt have the product. Hopefully I didnt kill anyseedling I didnt see any but not sure what I am looking for. Any thoughts ?

4 ounces should be fine but keep us posted on what happens?

, it is switch but "released" switch, once the competition had died off

You got it Eyad...there are often some decent NWSG remnants in our fields and they appear once the cool season grasses are killed.

June 3rd, 2012

I frost seeded some Cave In Rock switchgrass into some waterways in mid winter nearly 5 years ago now, but for the first time in decades the land is being row cropped and the tenant attempted to trim the size of the waterway a bit. They mowed it in early May when everything including switchgrass was green and growing, no-tilled corn and then nuked it with a gly and residual herbicide cocktail....interestingly enough this had zero effect on the switchgrass!

Apparently because they mowed it there was not enough exposed leaf...I am not certain but the switch is coming back with a vengeance!

As you can see the other cool season grasses are dead as a door nail

While the CIR is growing like mad!

Often we learn about new options quite by accident and this appears to be a possible for cleaning up problem cool seasons in the spring, worthy at least of more experimentation...

 

[gatzow]

As I have mentioned in previous posts, I have hired some help to get my 8-10 acre field ready for planting switch. I am probably waiting until next winter/spring by now, but wanted to get serious about getting the field ready now. He is bringing in a bulldozer to help level everything. I won't re-tell the story.

Anyway, I am writing now because he said that he is planning on bringing in a Harley rake once the bull dozing is done. I have never heard of a harley rake before. I googled it and all that came up were comments about using it for a lawn - not a 10 acre field. Is this harley rake a little over the top just to get a field ready to plant switchgrass? Has anyone used one before? at $60 per hour, I don't want to do unneccesary steps. Right now a chunk of the field has been bulldozed and back dragged, so it is pretty flat. About 4 acres to go. If anyone knows what this machine all does, please let me know if it will help or if it is not needed. This field used to be crop land about 10 or 15 years ago. I put in 28 apple trees earlier this year and did not come across a single rock, so I think debris in the field is minimal, which seemed to be a big function of the harley rake from what I could read.

Thanks for your help.