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Switchgrass

Pictures of mature CIR switchgrass on May 12th

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Compared to Indiangrass...flat as a pancake...


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Couple questions that have been brought up:

Do deer prefer large fields of switchgrass or small strips or islands?

From what I seen on my own place and from visiting with others I believe mature bucks especially prefer large fields of switchgrass. This is not to say they may not use a small patch of switch in a hidden area but in general, the more the better.

Do bucks or does prefer to use switchgrass for bedding?

I would say both but over the years I have rarely jumped does or doe groups from my switchgrass but almost always jump mature bucks.

I find solitary beds way more frequently then multiple beds and they appear to have been used for a long long time...;)
 
Dbltree,
How old is the switchgrass in the first 2 or 3 pictures under your heading "Here's some pics of new switch growth on May 12th"? Are those first year seedlings? They look like they are already 4 inches or taller. If they are first year seedlings, what date was it seeded? We had to spray ours w/ roundup on Monday, May 11. Like we discussed before, we really had nothing to lose because the way we did things wrong, if we didn't spray now we would have nothing but cool season grasses anyway. I hope we didn't kill all our CIR, I don't really think any was up yet, but I could be wrong if those pictures are first year seedlings. Also, I saw on the QDMA thread that someone's first year SG seedlings were coming up in nothern Michigan already. All this has me a little worried!!

Thanks
 
Dbltree,
How old is the switchgrass in the first 2 or 3 pictures under your heading "Here's some pics of new switch growth on May 12th"? Are those first year seedlings? They look like they are already 4 inches or taller. If they are first year seedlings, what date was it seeded? We had to spray ours w/ roundup on Monday, May 11. Like we discussed before, we really had nothing to lose because the way we did things wrong, if we didn't spray now we would have nothing but cool season grasses anyway. I hope we didn't kill all our CIR, I don't really think any was up yet, but I could be wrong if those pictures are first year seedlings. Also, I saw on the QDMA thread that someone's first year SG seedlings were coming up in nothern Michigan already. All this has me a little worried!!

Thanks


This pic is switchgrass that was winter seeded in Feb of 2008 so it germinated and grew last summer and it's now putting on second year growth as of May 11th 2009. These shoots are coming up from the root of established plants, not new seed.

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Comparing it to cool season grass growing close by...boy, it's not that easy to tell, so when people say there is up and growing...well, maybe, maybe not? ;)
 
Thanks, I will let everyone know how our CIR turns out, if it germinates this spring and we didn't kill it on Monday with the roundup/atrazine, we should know in a month or so if we will have anything good or not.
 
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Dbltree, your mature switchgrass looks awesome! Do turkeys nest in tall, thick, mature switchgrass? It's probably too thick for "brood rearing" but I would sure think that they would like to make their nests in it. My main goal with the CIR is for deer cover, but good turkey and pheasant nesting would be a big plus too.

Looking ahead for next winter's frost seeding, when is the best time to spray cool season grasses with roundup for the best kill? August 1, August 15, September 1, September 15, or October 1? Also, how tall should you let the grasses get after mowing before you spray and approximately how many weeks of growth would that be? For example, if Sept. 15 is the best date to spray, should we mow around August 15 or Sept. 1? Also, is it better to mow 2 or 3 times before spraying, for example, July 15, August 1, and August 15?

Thanks again.
 
I sprayed some cool season grasses TWICE in late summer/fall - August 30 and September 20 AND I still had way too much green re-growth. If I were doing it again, I'd spray a couple times and have my last spraying be as LATE AS POSSIBLE when I can still catch a warmer day and make sure things are fried for the year. My later spraying will hopefully make sure stuff doesn't have time to sprout back up really thick/green like it did for me last year.
 
I spoke with a couple guys at the NRCS office and they said they wouldn't "thicken" up a stand of switch with frost seeding as it will most likely get EXTREMELY thick on its own. Do you all agree with that as I had mine frost seeded in March of 2008 and his will be year #2. I am hoping for the best as last year it was about knee high in some areas and others I couldn't tell it was there. Will it spread on its own and thicken up as the years go by?
 
Do turkeys nest in tall, thick, mature switchgrass? It's probably too thick for "brood rearing" but I would sure think that they would like to make their nests in it. My main goal with the CIR is for deer cover, but good turkey and pheasant nesting would be a big plus too.

It's something I never expected by turkeys absoultely love my switchgrass, they nest in it, feed in it and spend a great deal of time in! I have never walked thru it anytime of year without flushing the big birds from the switchgrass!

Despite all the hype about native mixes and blah blah, that switch is to thick etc. for pheasants they spend their lives in it IF it is planted next to crops! When I stopped growing corn, pheasants no longer stayed on my place.

On a next door farm with large fields of switchgrass and crops adjacent to them, it is teeming with birds and has been for 20 years!


I spoke with a couple guys at the NRCS office and they said they wouldn't "thicken" up a stand of switch with frost seeding as it will most likely get EXTREMELY thick on its own. Do you all agree with that as I had mine frost seeded in March of 2008 and his will be year #2. I am hoping for the best as last year it was about knee high in some areas and others I couldn't tell it was there. Will it spread on its own and thicken up as the years go by?

It will thicken on it's own if you don't allow cool season grasses to invade and take over! Once they do, it's impossible for switch to even exist and that's why I discourage "thin" plantings because brome will invade and suffacate the switch over time.

It takes nearly 3 years to get a full thick stand so it's difficult to say if more seed would be needed. Herbicide usually helps and allows switchgrass to fill in. :)
 
is CIR switch resistant to atrazine at all stages? Can I spray it now to kill other plants that have emerged by adding some crop oil. I did everything right and have tons of switch germinating and little weeds but just curious as it warms and more weeds grow if I can still spray atrazine??
 
Yes it is

Yes switchgrass is resistant to atrazine at all stages, and just like Dbltree just posted crop oil can be added to help absorb through the leaves but to get help on grass you have to use 4 lbs per acre. Read the label and it tells about spraying christmas trees and it uses 4 lbs. per acre so I put some conifirs in and that makes it legal and I also end up with some christmas trees for my house and the kids in the future. Anyone who is spraying should do a test strip, put 4 lbs on at lest some and check it out for your self. It is cheaper than mowing and it works better and with the price of fuel it is cheaper also. As a bonus you get a residual effect with the extra amount of chemical. Leave a small spot without spray so you can see what you don't get also.\
Nice looking deer picture also.
Cary

is CIR switch resistant to atrazine at all stages? Can I spray it now to kill other plants that have emerged by adding some crop oil. I did everything right and have tons of switch germinating and little weeds but just curious as it warms and more weeds grow if I can still spray atrazine??
 
is CIR switch resistant to atrazine at all stages? Can I spray it now to kill other plants that have emerged by adding some crop oil. I did everything right and have tons of switch germinating and little weeds but just curious as it warms and more weeds grow if I can still spray atrazine??

Carey covered your question well but you can also spray broadleaf weeds later (after switch has 3-4 leaves) if need be.

Atrazine gives you the desired residual benefits however and as mentioned within legal limits "more is better"....;)
 
thanks for the help guys, thats what I thought just needed reassurance. My stand of first year switch is looking good right now, we'll see what the summer brings before I take any further action.
 
Just a few more pics of switchgrass seedlings and a pic of foxtail seedlings as well for comparison.

Notice the reddish tint of the stems on this switchgrass and others I posted previously.

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Here's a link to prairie seedling ID: (it's a PDF file that you'll have to "open")

<NOBR>Prairie Seedling </NOBR><NOBR>Identification </NOBR><NOBR>Implementation Guide Series</NOBR>

Here's a pic of Yellow Foxtail emerging

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More yellow foxtail...notice how the foxtail has mutiple leaves whilt the switch grows straight up when small.

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Giant foxtail seedling:

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Another link to pictures of foxtail seedlings:

Foxtail Species-Group Seeds & Seedlings

As plants get 4-6" tall of course they become eaiser to identify but when first emerging it can be difficult and confusing. Drilled prairie grass where good residual herbicide has been used makes it much easier to determine what is coming up. ;)
 
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Dbltree, I think this was mentioned before, but does atrazine control foxtail (keep it from sprouting) and at what rate does it need to be applied to control foxtail?
 
Dbltree, I think this was mentioned before, but does atrazine control foxtail (keep it from sprouting) and at what rate does it need to be applied to control foxtail?

Yes...

The rate required varies depending on soil structure, sandy loam soils requiring less then heavy clay soils for instance.

On my soils I found I had to "exceed" labeled rates to get good control (take that as you may...;) )

At the very least I would want the absolute maximum rate allowed to get good foxtail control. On corn ground it's essential to keep atrazine rates within or below approved rates but for a one time application to switchgrass..."pushing the limit" will ensure good weed control and allow the siwthgrass to beomce establihed quickly. :)
 
I used DUAL combined with Atrazine for foxtail control (Bicep II Magum or Cinch ATZ) We'll see how it turns out, so far- so good.
 
Just got back from checking my first year switch, and first ever planting. I am excited I have a great jump. Small plot compared to you guys, probably and acre and a half. But it is rocking. We have had colder temps so my switch is only about an inch tall but very little weed competition. I cant stress enough that PROPER WEED CONTROL WORKS. I have followed dbltrees advice to a t. Killed my selected plot three times last aug and sept. Frost seeded in early march and hit it once with atrazine this spring. Right now I have 85% switch seedlings sprouted and 15% misc. broadleaf weeds. Cant wait till this stuff matures in a few years!!! Thanks Dbltree!!!
 
Use of crop oil and atrazine for post emergence weed control

At the start our switchgrass planting all was going as it should. We had it sprayed late in the fall of 2007 and had a great burn down. In early March of 2008 we put down around 8 pounds of seed an acre then the rain started and we just couldn't get atrazine down as hopesd as we had to rely on others to get the spraying done. We were promised one thing and the bill showed something different and it was much later than we wanted. The weed competition was terrible. The timing of rain just didn't give us a break and we couldn't get it mowed. I had a tough time finding switchgrass in the plantings and feared the worse with the late spraying as they used round up in the mix and I felt they had killed what germinated. This spring things looked up as we ordered our own sprayer and I decided to head at it on my own and see what we had. The first weekend in May I mowed all 25 acres. I talked to many people and they all had their own opinion what I should spray based on the emerged weed growth. May 7th I secured my chemicals and Friday May 8th I picked up our new sprayer and headed to the farm and hooked it up. At this point I was planning a glyphosonate atrazine mix but before I headed home I took a close look at what was growing and seen rows in places. Again a loss and didn't know what to do. I talked to a family member in the spraying business and he said to skip the glyphosonate and add crop oil to the atrazine. He said it works great for corn and tried to justify the relationship between corn and switchgrass. Saturday I decided to give it a try with a few final phone calls to get some assurance (thanks guys) I went ahead with it let's just say I learned a great deal about spraying and got about 1/3 of it done and. If I have never shared I have a great wife let me just say she's great and I couldn't imagine life without her. Sunday was Mothers day I figured I wouldn't even ask to get back at it but after noon sometime she said if you want to get the spraying done you better get going. Needles to say I headed out. I finished all but 5 acres as I ran out of chemical (the learning part). My mix was a strong dose of atrazine and 10 oz of crop oil an acre for Saturday. Sunday I spiked the mix with a little more atrazine and kept the crop oil about the same. The final 5 acres I took the atrazine down to the first day level and put around 15 0z of crop oil in the mix this would give me and idea of what worked best. So far the stronger dose of atrazine with 10 oz of crop oil is the winner. In all it looks great. I just finished the last 5 acres Thursday and as of Sunday it was starting to hurt but the results will be better seen next week.

This top picture is what it all looked like before I sprayed. This is part of the last 5 acres so I will be able to show a true before and after though this was sprayed 2 days earlier you can see a little yellowing. This is was what it looked liked when I started.

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The following picts show what the results as of Saturday 13 days after being sprayed. If you can see the bright green in the dead stuff that's the switch coming through! In every area that's been sprayed I can see the rows where we drilled the seed. This was by far not the ideal way this should have been done but so far I'm happy with the results and will keep you updated.​

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This shows diffrence between spayed and not.​

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Stronger atrazine here. Even in the thin areas between the green I still find the rows of switch is just smaller than the dominant switch you can see in the picture.​

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The following picture shows a couple things. First the switch is on the top left looking good and mostly weed free on the right is an acre of direct seeded acorns that is coming along. I sprayed it with 1 ounce of Oust with a back pack sprayer in April and look at the results! It took awhile but there are some little oaks sprouting I will save that for another time. Will post the results of the last 5 acres in a couple weeks.​

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Dbltree or anyone who has experience with using glyphosate, I have a question. Some of the cool season grass that we sprayed on May 11 (with roundup and atrazine) in our CIR plot that we just seeded this spring still has some green color to it. You can tell that it was sprayed because it has not grown since the spraying and there is some yellow to it, but it's not brown yet like most areas of the plot. Also, there were a couple small strips that were obviously missed because they were still bright green and growing, so I spot sprayed that with a backpack sprayer. My question is, the grass that still has some green to it but was obviously sprayed, will that eventually die or can it "bounce back" and live and keep growing? This was very mature cool season grass that had been in CRP for 20 years or so. Not sure what type of grass, but it would get a little over knee high by mid summer. It will be 3 weeks Monday since it was sprayed. It was about 4 to 5 inches tall when we sprayed it. Will it just take more time for this deep rooted stuff to totally die? We used about 2 quarts of glyphosate with surfactant per acre and we had good dry weather for a day or two after that. It's been cool up here, only two days above 80 degrees all spring so far, so that might slow the process up too?

Also, I wanted to give everyone an update on how our plot is doing. We did just about everything wrong that we possibly could, because I had not found this great thread until after we planted, and I believed all the other bad information out there about how to plant NWSG. In early April I burned the site with fire to get rid of all the trash from previous growing seasons. Then I disked the top 2 to 3 inches and then took our 6 foot tiller behind the tractor set at about 2 to 3 inches. Then I pulled our heavy steel roller/packer to firm it and spread the seed with our old grain drill which just drops the seed on the surface. Then I rolled/packed it again. That was planted on April 4, so after reading everything here, I was afraid it would be too late to cold stratify the dormant seed. I knew we would have to spray the cool season grass that would come back or we would have nothing but cool season grass again (lightly disking and tilling one time never kills thick mature grass). I also knew with the tilling that there would be a ton of weeds that would also germinate. My goal was to spray as late as possible with a glyphosate/atrazine mix so that we could get as much of the cool season grass up and growing before spraying, but before the CIR germinates. I was a bit worried to hear from people who had SG germinating in late April and early May, but by looking at ours, I didn't think anything was really up yet beside the cool season grass that had been there, and some other weeds. We sprayed on May 11. The good news is, I think we have a lot of CIR just starting to come up. The tallest stuff is no more than 1" tall and looks just like the SG seedlings in the photos. I've been checking it regularly the last couple weeks and just the last few days I've noticed more CIR everyday. The pictures you have posted recently of SG and foxtail helped a ton! Thanks! Also, I looked at our corn plot which always has foxtail coming, and I could really see the small foxtail in the corn, but not the CIR plot, and the difference compared to what I believe is CIR. With a little experience, I think it is quite easy to tell the difference between baby foxtail and baby SG. I think ours might have germinated later because we planted after the good frost seeding dates, plus, the first 3 weeks of April were bone dry, so no stratification took place and it just needed more time to cold stratify. I tried a test to see how much of our seed was dormant by putting some of the seed in damp paper towel and put it in a clear ziploc bag, and hung it in a sunny south side window of the house. After about 3 weeks, only 2 out of 100 seeds germinated, so we had almost 100% dormant seed. Apparently we had at least decent cold/stratifying conditions from late April through mid May. I'm anxious to see what it looks like in a 2-3 weeks. If more CIR keeps germinating like it has the last few days, I think we will have a thick plot! I'm doing another test with the CIR seed. I put a some in the refrigerator in damp paper towel. I plan on taking some seed out at 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks, and so on, and putting it in the window like before to see the effects on germination rates and how long it takes for the majority of the seed to cold stratify this way.

Thanks everyone, esp. Dbltree for all the great info here. We are doing another 4.3 acres of CIR next year, only this time everything will be done the right way!
 
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The problem your having with the coolseason grasses is the reason I encourage killing it in late summer/early fall. In early spring much of it is still dormant and not growing well and therefore it doesn't absorb the gly like it does later in the spring or early fall.

Dormant roots begin to send up new shoots and the ground warms up so it often appears that the gly didn't work....it can't work unless all the plant is growing and can draw the gly thru the leaf to the root.

The plants that are actively growing when you sprayed them should die, no way they can survive if properly sprayed and they were indeed actively growing.

Keep us posted on your CIR seedling as it progresses, several other people have emailed me pics but I have been reluctant to post them until we know for positive that it's switchgrass....;)
 
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